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Chevy/GMC Trucks \ Question for 2nd gen S-10 gurus....Question for 2nd gen S-10 gurus....
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mreed
+1y
I have a stripped frame in my garage right now that I've been messing around with when I get frustrated with whatever else I'm working on. I've taken alot of measurements and here's what I see...
You CAN lay it out on 20's with stock arms that are unmodified...but the frame doesn't lay completely flat. The engine cradle crossmember is 1/8" or so lower than the frame rails.
Here's what I have,
This is with 245/35's. The lowers have new Moog balljoints and the uppers have BLF's "uniball"-joints which aren't all that great.
It has drop spindles. I don't see how you'd get it to lay with stock spindles. I used Firestone 2500's with SD's basic S10 cups. I had to trim 1 1/4" off of the lower cup and cut threads down further on the shank of the welded in bolts.
I trimmed the lower cup instead of the upper because there isn't much room for a 90 degree fitting as it is. I also had to shim the upper arms about 3/4" but that may be because the BLF uni-joints are bottomed out. Another reason why I don't like those is because they also bottom out on the other side limiting lift.
I imagine the uppers would need to be pie-cut if you use a regular balljoint. I'm going to try some SD bare upper arms with regular balljoints and the offset Moog cross shafts flipped.
Just a note...the flat spot on the stock leaf spring hanger is the same distance from the ground as the lowest part of the engine cradle (when the frame is level). If you use a 1.5" bar end instead of the most common 2" bar end you can trim the hanger level with the flattest part and your bars won't drag.
You CAN lay it out on 20's with stock arms that are unmodified...but the frame doesn't lay completely flat. The engine cradle crossmember is 1/8" or so lower than the frame rails.
Here's what I have,
This is with 245/35's. The lowers have new Moog balljoints and the uppers have BLF's "uniball"-joints which aren't all that great.
It has drop spindles. I don't see how you'd get it to lay with stock spindles. I used Firestone 2500's with SD's basic S10 cups. I had to trim 1 1/4" off of the lower cup and cut threads down further on the shank of the welded in bolts.
I trimmed the lower cup instead of the upper because there isn't much room for a 90 degree fitting as it is. I also had to shim the upper arms about 3/4" but that may be because the BLF uni-joints are bottomed out. Another reason why I don't like those is because they also bottom out on the other side limiting lift.
I imagine the uppers would need to be pie-cut if you use a regular balljoint. I'm going to try some SD bare upper arms with regular balljoints and the offset Moog cross shafts flipped.
Just a note...the flat spot on the stock leaf spring hanger is the same distance from the ground as the lowest part of the engine cradle (when the frame is level). If you use a 1.5" bar end instead of the most common 2" bar end you can trim the hanger level with the flattest part and your bars won't drag.
disfiguredS10
+1y
Edited: 12/16/2008 8:48:41 PM by disfiguredS10
my lowers are stepped 1 1/4" and the uppers balljoint was re angled ever so slightly. its layed out hard in my garage right now on 235/70/15's. i got belltech spindles too.oh yeah after i set the toe finally the tire wear is minimal, 3500 mi. on my nittos and they are wearing great.
my lowers are stepped 1 1/4" and the uppers balljoint was re angled ever so slightly. its layed out hard in my garage right now on 235/70/15's. i got belltech spindles too.oh yeah after i set the toe finally the tire wear is minimal, 3500 mi. on my nittos and they are wearing great.