valve placement

I've never used check valves on anything except the one after the compressor before the tank. Never had a problem with any of the air suspensions I've done.

they still a good idea to run. for the price, and the size i say theyre worth it. silencers are nice too.

i always wanted to run dump lines through a tee. one is normal or through a silencer. the other way goes through a small tappered horn by the pass rear tire. so you can use the movement and sound to scare random pedestrians. haha. have the horn side going though a second valve, that is wired with the dumps on a different switch. i dunno. just a smartass idea i had.

I like mounting the valves close to the bags...thus using less air when lifting and having a quicker response time. Something I suggest to all people is make sure you use top quality brass fittings and a full proof airline. I only use hydraulic line....Losing pressure at 70mph is unacceptable. Not only is it dangerous...it is avoidable. You can fully plumb you system with hydraulic line and brass fittings for less than $200. I've never had a problem with a fitting busting or any leaks. I've left my truck untouched for 2 months....after 2 months i only lost 5 psi out of a 10 gallon tank. Do yourself a favor and plumb your system right.

damn. nice job man. what about using hardline? any experiance with that?

My truck is hardlined with 3/8" stainless steel. Looks great and i've never had a leak. Also i'm not worried about heat or any of the other problems that nylon line is prone to.

what about copper lines?

where is a good place to get hydraulic lines from?...and what fittings would you use for that?

Any suggestions on sealant for fittings? Is teflon tape the way to go? Or is there something better? I've been using the tape, but it seems like I can't keep the dang fitting from leaking...

There area lot of good ideas in here. I will only add a few things.

The length of the line slowing down the lift and drop of your system is called "line loss." In any situation, the longer the line the less pressure and less flow you will have. I know that pressure doesn't make sense, but it's true.

Considering the airline as part of the bag volume can work if the line is big enough (1/2" or larger) but it should never be used to cure a problem. Install the right size airbag to start with.

Not isolating the bags from each other in most circumstances is not preferable. A swaybar can help, but will never be as good as isolating the bags. A 2-link is a different story, but I'm not going to entertain that here.

I used to run check valves on every system, just for safely reasons, but have found that 75% of the valves fail within only months of being installed.

I like to use Teflon paste. It seems to work very well.

I mount the valves where it is convienient to get to them. I have had enoung situations where the vehicle has been sitting for so long that the system is completely dead and you can't get to the valves. But on the other side of that coin, I do not concern myself with lift speed. Modern air bag systems lift plenty fast for a daily driver, even if the front valves are mounted in the trunk.

Most of the time the hydraulic line doesn't call for any special fittings. Occasionally ull need a flare fitting or a swivel to make it work.I like the hydraulic line because its fool proof and not a PITA to route like hardline can be. I have mine running through my frame.Its rated to 4000 psi, 600 dgrees, and I've sawzalled a line for over a minutes without doing any damage. You can get it at any Tractor Supply in precut lengths, but places like napa and oreilly can make u custom lengths. I ussually use precut cause its cheaper and mount my valves wherever they'll fit. As for check valves...I can't seem to find any that last more than a couple months so I don't even bother. I use a couple wraps of teflon then a drop Loctite thread sealant. Works everytime.