20's On 88 toyota?

I am going to bag my 88' toyota  soon and was wondering if I have to tub the firewall if I bag it on 20's?  I'm not planning on body dropping it, just lay frame. any help is appreciated

If you want to lay the front crossmember on 20s, I know some people that have not tubbed the firewall, just hit it with a big hammer. I guess it works. But if you want to lay frame, and Z the truck, definitely won't work, even with some sledge massage.

do you have to Z the frame to lay out completely? is there another way to lay out completely without a Z? cause I've seen the guys with the 89-93(I believe) model toyota's do it but I don't know if that frame is the same as mine.

you can move the control arms up instead of z'ing the frame there was an article in minitrukin a while back about doing this My yota is z'd I belive there are positives and negatives to both

seth will chime in on the not z approach. he said it sucked. lol.

you do not have to z the frame on the 84-88 toy to get it to lay all the way out!  i've been in many arguements with others over this, but i's just not necessary.  below your oil pan is a removeable frame spreader.  you remove that & "section" the mounts & make your own spreader bar.  obviously you also need to redo your tranny x-member, but once the 2 of those are done, the frame will lay perfectly flat.  i know that only leaves your oil pan about 1 & 1/2" to 2" off the ground, but hey... also you will definately have to tub the firewall, but not enough to really be a big deal.  you will still be able to keep you factory fuse block in it's stock location & ecm (if equipped).  look at some of my pics if you want, or i can send you some.  i know before my body drop i had to hammer mine with just 17's, that's how i know that you'll need to cut for 20's.  good luck, & feel free to hit me up if you need to...  

 

I did the "No Z" approach on my truck. It works out fine, but in the end it ended up being a lot more work than just Z'ing the frame. You need to move up the LCA mount, UCA mount, steering box mount, idler arm mount, and notch the frame for the nut's on both the pitman arm and idler arm. It took me about a week to do all of this. I can Z a truck in a day or two, and it's a lot less effort. There is also no chance of screwing up your suspension geometry. So, I prefer the Z method.   As far as neither Z'ing or sectioning the crossmember, the truck will never really lay. Some people cut about 1/2" off the bottom of the crossmember, and just drag until it looks about level. But it won't actually lay unless you start dragging through the bushing. Most Toyotas need a 1 1/2" Z. It can vary up to about 1/4" since not all the frames came out the same. I know people that just drug down the crossmember, and when it came time to bodydrop, the front of the cab still had to drop about 1/2" more.  I'm a big fan of doing it right. But some people just prefer the easiest method, no matter how ghetto.

i guess it all depends on if you know what your doing or dont. what seth says about moving this to move that and shake it all about is not nessesary.   here is what you do i dont care what anybody says ive been doing toyotas for a long time.  this is the best way with the least amount of work to lay 20's.   new upper control arm an inch longer than stock, drop spindles, sectioning the lower control arm mount an inch, shave a 1/2 inch off of the lower control arm crossmember and  space the strut rod down a 1/2 inch off of the lower control arm. once all this is done build your bag mounts to fit.  this can all be achieved with a days work in your garage. then you can bodydrop it with the stock hood and you dont have to drop the motor cuz you z'ed the frame a year ago.

I just don't understand how you can still have good steering geometry without moving the pivots for those points as well. Mine got a ridiculous amount of Toe change throughout it's travel, so I had to move the steering components.

did you align it at mid suspension travel. alot of people dont realize that taking a truck from being 12-15 inches off the ground to on the ground requires an alignment to correct what you have done. just asking