Rasing upper control arm mount help!!!!!!!!! 05+ F150 (PICS)

Ok guys her is where im at, I bagged my truck about a year ago shockwaves and djm lower control arms in the front. with a 2link bag on bars with diagnal link. It looked like this picture. Thats completely laied out. Not happy with the way it looks!!!!!
 
 

 
Now im trying to tub it out and eliminate some camber. so i cut out the stock mounts called Mitch at ekstensive and they made me some mounts that are two inches taller then stock only did two inches cause thats what every one recommended. thats the mont in place.
 
 


 
I plated my lower control arms and mounted a firestone 2600 bag. LCA and "D" Plate at ride height like everyone recommended.
After all this, I mounted everything back together. (havent tightend anything yet) put the 20" roush wheel on that measure 26.5" over all and it looks like this.
 
 

 
If you look at the wheel and fender on this pic compared to the first pic there is a little diffrence not much though. Where did i go wrong any suggestions? I was expecting to tuck more, cause i plan on 24s in the near future. Im relocating the battery near front bumper. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated, i dont mind redoing it if i have too as long as it comes out right!!! Thanks guys!!!! visual person so pics are awesome!!!
 
 
 
 
 

Is the bag mounted in that pic?  If not then one of the balljoints is probably bottomed out. Is the tie rod hitting the frame?

Edited: 4/2/2009 3:23:00 PM by speedyredryder

Tie rod is not hitting the frame tie rod still has plenty of room to move. Bag is mounted in place. Upper control arm Ball joint is bottomed out. would i need to go higher on upper control arm tabs?

you could make new upper arms with the ball joints re-angled... That upper arm design looks simple shouldnt be too hard to do at all if your pretty good with fabrication and welding

I just got done making a set of upper control arms for that exact same model truck, for the exact same reason.   I also made him raised mounts that raised his uppers 3" from stock.   those brackets you have thare, are those the brackets that ekstensive sent you? I narrowed his uppers just a bit, and gave the balljoint an angle, so it could travel more and lay out, it now gets down on a 24.  i would figure you would probably need to do the same thing.

Edited: 4/2/2009 4:05:30 PM by maz duh

I'm no Ford expert here or anything but I can suggest a couple of things you might want to look at. In the first frame pic the balljoint is maxed out, is it doing the same at full lift? If not a new set of arms with re-angled upper ball joints will help, this might mean reaming the spindle out to take a different joint. The 2nd thing I would suggest is talking to Max from Bio Kustumz about having a set of spindles made for you. This isn't going to be the cheapest thing you could do but it will be the best in the long run, especially if there is a set of larger wheels in your future. Read his coloum in this months MiniTruckin mag, it discusses the exact issue you are dealing with currently. I also saw something in the bottom right of your first frame photo that appears to be a jagged looking hole in the side of your frame. If I did see this correctly get it fixed asap., thats a real quick way to wind up with a stress crack in your frame. if you have already dealt with it or I didn't see it right in the first place disregard my comment then. I am NOT hating on ya, just looking out for a brutha. Good luck with the build and keep us posted.

you'll have to do some custom upper arms or get some djm arms and modify them I just got done doin this on my ranger to elliminate some camber. I also raised my rack and pinion to help with the bumpsteerthats created by moving the uca mounts up

Taylor-can you pm me a price on how much you would charge me for making me them mounts and control arms? Maz duh- I had completely missed that on the frame good looking out whats your best recomendation to fix that would cutting a square out in the frame and plating it work?

Try and avoid cutting it out in a square if you can as the corners are a good spots for cracks to start from. Try and round the hole out with a die grinder as best you can and then make a template .  To make your template lay a piece of manila folder over your freshly cut hole and tap around the edge lightly with a ball pien hammer, this will make a perfect template quickly and easily. Get a piece of steel about the same thickness as your chassis and use your template to cut out your patch. Leave a slight gap between the patch and the frame to ensure good weld penetration and weld it up and you should be good.  Glad to help you out man, good luck with your build.

drop spindles icant wait to lay out my 04....