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Build-Ups \ 2 door tahoe build, Tre5 Customs2 door tahoe build, Tre5 Customs
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following 113
Mater
+1y
makes sense... just never seen it done. necessity is the mother of all inventions
makes sense... just never seen it done. necessity is the mother of all inventions
20runner
+1y
Edited: 5/11/2009 3:53:46 AM by TOWNLOW
I've never done a stock floor body drop myself but this is how I would do it as well, ESPECIALLY if you need to "z" the front anyways. You can run into a lot of problems though with this style "stock floor". Even though you have to usually notch the floor for things like the gas tank, tranny crossmember, etc., depending where they are. With this way, you actually have to raise the tank mounts and crossmember as well. And as far as the notch having to be bigger, that is true, but it will still be just as tall off the ground as any other kind of notch after a stock floor body drop. BUT on SUV's and CARS it is more ideal to do it this way ( I think) since there are so many body mounts that you would have to lower, unlike a truck with a bed that you can just take off which eliminates a lot of headache. I am doing this same style bodydrop to my car to get it an inch and a half lower. Doing it the other way would be such a pain in the ass, and my front and rear suspension is already built so I can cut that much off the bottom of the frame and still lay. Also, my body mounts are on top of the frame, not hanging off the side like most trucks. I think Jeremy needs to slow down a bit though cuz he's making everyone else look bad!!
I've never done a stock floor body drop myself but this is how I would do it as well, ESPECIALLY if you need to "z" the front anyways. You can run into a lot of problems though with this style "stock floor". Even though you have to usually notch the floor for things like the gas tank, tranny crossmember, etc., depending where they are. With this way, you actually have to raise the tank mounts and crossmember as well. And as far as the notch having to be bigger, that is true, but it will still be just as tall off the ground as any other kind of notch after a stock floor body drop. BUT on SUV's and CARS it is more ideal to do it this way ( I think) since there are so many body mounts that you would have to lower, unlike a truck with a bed that you can just take off which eliminates a lot of headache. I am doing this same style bodydrop to my car to get it an inch and a half lower. Doing it the other way would be such a pain in the ass, and my front and rear suspension is already built so I can cut that much off the bottom of the frame and still lay. Also, my body mounts are on top of the frame, not hanging off the side like most trucks. I think Jeremy needs to slow down a bit though cuz he's making everyone else look bad!!
tre5
+1y
A couple reasons I am doing it this way have already been stated, but here goes anyway. By putting the new rails up against the top of the frame rail and cutting off the bottom, I dont have to take the body off, I don't have to make new body mounts, I don't have to have a frame jig to keep everything where it needs to be, and the crossmembers that I got rid of would have needed to be rebuilt anyway. As far as the floor of the tahoe goes... I did not need to clearance the tranny tunnel or firewall at any point. The only pieces of the cab I have to modify are the rear area for the wheel tubs and notch and the area for the driveshaft to come through. I have seen some of the stock floors on these years of chevy's and noticed one more recently where they cut out the tranny tunnel to put the body back on, just to weld the entire area back with the stock piece they cut out. Plus I had some insight from Jeff (4uhaters) that I could push the motor and tranny up and not have to cut out the floor for them. The only extra work I would say I am doing is a bigger step in the frame up front. Like already stated, these trucks need a 3/4" step to lay fame all the way, I just had to add 2 1/4" to the step because that is what I cut off the bottom of the frame.I need to go get to work now, so I will update later today...
A couple reasons I am doing it this way have already been stated, but here goes anyway. By putting the new rails up against the top of the frame rail and cutting off the bottom, I dont have to take the body off, I don't have to make new body mounts, I don't have to have a frame jig to keep everything where it needs to be, and the crossmembers that I got rid of would have needed to be rebuilt anyway. As far as the floor of the tahoe goes... I did not need to clearance the tranny tunnel or firewall at any point. The only pieces of the cab I have to modify are the rear area for the wheel tubs and notch and the area for the driveshaft to come through. I have seen some of the stock floors on these years of chevy's and noticed one more recently where they cut out the tranny tunnel to put the body back on, just to weld the entire area back with the stock piece they cut out. Plus I had some insight from Jeff (4uhaters) that I could push the motor and tranny up and not have to cut out the floor for them. The only extra work I would say I am doing is a bigger step in the frame up front. Like already stated, these trucks need a 3/4" step to lay fame all the way, I just had to add 2 1/4" to the step because that is what I cut off the bottom of the frame.I need to go get to work now, so I will update later today...
4uh8rs
+1y
i did my tahoe the same way.i did not cut fot the trans at all. there is a small tunnel fot the drive sfaft but once carpeted u cant tell.it savesa ton of time and guess work.also i drive mine DAILY.so as far as concerns on the safety i have none.Jeremy it is lookin awesome keep up the good work my friend
i did my tahoe the same way.i did not cut fot the trans at all. there is a small tunnel fot the drive sfaft but once carpeted u cant tell.it savesa ton of time and guess work.also i drive mine DAILY.so as far as concerns on the safety i have none.Jeremy it is lookin awesome keep up the good work my friend
tre5
+1y
No pics today, Day 6 of work I think. I cut the fenders out of the rear so I could take some measurements to get the rear end narrowed. Then I had to get the rear end down to the place to work on it. Hopefully I will have it back Friday with a couple inches taken off of it. I also had some errands to do, like take the trailer back out to BFE. Thanks for letting me use it again Andy!!! Hey Ryan, time to work on that signature... shows over. You better get that CRV done or else I will "beat your butt"
No pics today, Day 6 of work I think. I cut the fenders out of the rear so I could take some measurements to get the rear end narrowed. Then I had to get the rear end down to the place to work on it. Hopefully I will have it back Friday with a couple inches taken off of it. I also had some errands to do, like take the trailer back out to BFE. Thanks for letting me use it again Andy!!! Hey Ryan, time to work on that signature... shows over. You better get that CRV done or else I will "beat your butt"
