Removing Key Assembly In Lieu of Toggle Switch and Push Button

Ok so I got an I-Didit brushed aluminum column for the Rodeo from Grant Kustoms! Thanks for mentioning you sell them Zac!
 
Well it dont have a key.. didnt want the key. So instead of trying to cut the key assembly out of the old cloumn and mount it under the dash out of sight I figured its just a show car so why do I need a key anyways? I would be plenty happy with a hidden switch to turn the truck to the "ON" position and another hidden push button to activate the "START" function. Dont need a "ACC" feature so I would just leave that out.
 
So I Ohm'd out the 5 wires that control the ignition system at the cloumn. The one thing im not sure of is, some of the connections Ohm'd out above 0 Ohms, while others Ohm'd out at 0... do I need to maintain that resistance? Im afraid if I went straight through whatever the power is running too may not beable to handel the full power and may short out..... Anyone dealt with this issue before?
 
Heres what I found the wires did when I turned the key, Im thinking I can duplicate these results with a Multi Pole Toggle and a Multi Pole Push button... even the ohms with resitors but do I need too?
 
Blk/Red Stripe & Blk/Yel Stripe = On when START
Blk/Red Stripe & Blk/Wht Stripe = On when START but @ 130 Ohms
Blk/Red Stripe & Blk Solid = On when START
Blk/Yel Stripe & Blk/Wht Stripe = On when START but @ 130 Ohms
Blk/Yel Stripe & Blue Solid = On when ON but @ 130 Ohms then drops out When in START - Anyone have any Idea why this one drops out? Does it need to drop out or can I leave it locked ON when I flip the switch and push the START button?
Blk/Yel Stripe & Blk Solid = On when START
Blk/Wht Stripe & Blk Solid = On when START @ 30 Ohms
Blue Solid & Black Solid = On when ACC @ 100ohms, and on when ON @ 100 Ohms
 
Thanks Guys!
Miles

Anyone on here install car alarms for a living? Think you could look up my truck and give me the wire color code diagram so I can figure out which of these 5 wires is Hot and what the rest of them actually power.... Might help me make a decision on if I can drop some of these leads out. ThanksMiles

Constant 12V+Black  Ignition Switch Harness  Starter White/Blue  Ignition Switch Harness  Ignition Black/Yellow  Ignition Switch Harness  Accessory Blue  Ignition Switch Harness  Tach Blue (4 cylinder) or Black/Red (6 cylinder)  Coil or Multi Coil Pack  Brake Switch Red  Brake Switch  Trunk Release Red/Blue  Left of Column or at Switch  Trunk Pin n/a  Works with Dome Light  Parking Lights Green/Red  Light Switch or Dimmer Switch  Head Lamp Red/Blue (-)  Above Driver's Kick  Hood Pin n/a    Door Trigger Red/Green (-)  Behind left Front Speaker 2 Pin Connector  Door Lock n/a  Add Actuator in Driver's Door if Vehicle has Power Door Locks  Door Unlock n/a    Horn Wire Green/Red (-)  Steering Column, use Relay 

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/1169.html

Awsome now everything makes a lot more sence. Heres what im thinking chime in if anyone sees an issues. First I believe what I called Blk/Wht they call Blu/wht so here we go For the On toggle Switch I will connect Blk(hot) to Blk/yel(Ignition) & blue(Acc) For the On push button I will connect Blk(hot) to blk/wht(Starter) & blk/red(Tach) I guess as I do have a v6 and that is listed on the diagram as blk/red but it dont say ignition harness? Not sure why you would bump thr tach when your starting the truck? Anyone have any ideas... or may be i have the wrong blk/red wire from the ignition harness and it does some other task that the alarm people wouldnt care about?   sounds simple except this red/blk huh? Any Input Thanks pootus that helped alotMiles

how about gettin one for a 95 nissan hb ext cab 2.4 i was goint to do the same

you don't need to wory about using red/black tach wire. That is just listed because that is an alarm sheet and is needed for remote starts to know whether the the engine is running and to stop cranking. Unless you are getting high current switches, you should use relays

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by wrkd94toyhow about gettin one for a 95 nissan hb ext cab 2.4 i was goint to do the same--------------------------------------------- Constant 12V+White/Black  Ignition Switch Harness  Starter Black/Yellow  Ignition Switch Harness  Ignition Black/White  Ignition Switch Harness  Ignition 2 Black/Yellow  Ignition Switch Harness Cold Start Wire  Accessory Black/Blue  Ignition Switch Harness  Tach White or Blue  Coil  Brake Switch Green/Yellow  Brake Switch  Trunk Pin n/a    Parking Lights Pink/Blue  Steering Column  Head Lamp Red/Green L  Red/Black R at Steering Column  Hood Pin n/a    Factory Disarm n/a    Door Trigger Red/Black (-)  Driver's A Pillar some HAVE NO Passenger's Pin  Door Lock Black/Yellow (-)  Driver's Kick Panel  Door Unlock Black/Red (-)    Horn Wire Light Green/Black (-)  Steering Column

these are all high current wires, you will need multiple 30-40A toggle switches (remember, you plan for the transient, NOT the steady state) Fair warning, a 30-40A toggle switch will cost about 20 bucks for one. you will need three, because you cant just gang them wires together on a single, you would exceed the rating. Sounds expensive, but probably not a big deal for a guy with a billet column.  the one that drops off during crank is the accessory wire. Anything that isnt essential to starting the engine is removed from the load, radios, AC, blower motor, etc, so the maximum current is avaliable to start.

You could use a single switch and tie it to several relays, so it's not like starting the space shuttle when you want to go somewhere!  "accessory power on- check.  ignition- check.  fans- check..." FWIW, I've never isolated the accessories to give the starter full power, and it's never really been an issue.  I know that doesn't necessarily make it "right", but if you don't leave your ac on, and because most aftermarket radios take a few seconds to power up anyway, it probably wouldn't cause too much trouble... -Phil at FBI