Stepping control arms...Anyone have pics?

If you set up a jig where the ball joint stays stationary and also the bushings stay stationary, there shouldnt be any geometry change???

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by maz duh---------------------------------------------Originally posted by nigels world---------------------------------------------Originally posted by maz duhYou are aware of the geometry issues that this will induce to your front end, correct?  Not trying to be a prick, just want to make sure you are informed before you fire up the old Sawzall.---------------------------------------------You can perform this mod with zero change in geometry. --------------------------------------------- If you move the pivot point of the lower balljoint upwards while leaving all of the remaining pivot points the same you have made a change in the geometry, study the Akerman sticky and you will see what I'm talking about. Some trucks will react to this type of mod with more negative effects than others , increased bumpsteer will be the most common issues asociated with this operation. Drop spindles are typically the better bet as they retain the factory geometry in the front end as much as possible. I do however understand that they are not available for every truck out there and that sometimes stepping the arm is an option for people in these cases. An alternative would be a custom drop knuckle which could get pricey if you have to farm out the fab work to someone else but is worth it all the way.   ---------------------------------------------You are incorrect They are just changing the shape of the armYou are not moving any pivot pionts as the arms still attach to the frame and spindle in the same location as stock

The distance between the pivot point on the frame and the pivot point of the lower balljoint will grow longer if you just move the lower balljoint up.  Think of it like a right triangle, one corner will represent the pivot point at the chassis, the 90 degree corner will represent the stock balljoint position and the remaining corner will be the new balljoint position. Draw it out on a piece of paper and measure out the points, you will see the distance between the points grow when you move the ball joint up. Longer lower arm coupled with stock everything else equals a geometry change.

a little change can be tolerated.  that's why the upper arms can be shimmed for caster/camber and the tierod can be adjusted for toe in/out. the suspension is already working well past it's designed travel range anyways, what's an extra 1/8" of length on the lower arms gonna do. 

the whole reasoning in doing this is because he cant run the drop spindles. the spindles push the wheel center out and the wheels he has have the incorrect offset. yes he could buy different wheels but he likes these ones and wants to use them. and so by taking the drop spindles out now the truck wont lay. if someone has a different option in doing this please let me know.

Edited: 6/28/2009 9:23:04 AM by sadexcuse4s10

i defenitely wouldn't build my suspension around wheels with a bad offset. you'll play hell when you decide you're tired of those wheels and want a newer style.   but i do have drop spindles with the stepped balljoints on my ride.  The way i have mine setup I could dehump my lower arms and trim my bag cups a little more and lay on 24's rather than the 22's i'm running now

i hope you don't mean that my wheels have the wrong offset because they do not.  they're 22x9.5 with +15mm BS, the width of them may be tricking your eyes because they're 1" wider than most s10 wheels

not yours the mazda that this is all about.

WOW! Forgot about this thread!I like to see how this has become an argument! lol anyways carry on....I like reading this lol, but the arms will be stepped anyways.Thanks

If your going to do it i would find a piece of allthread the right diamter of your control arms (probably 9/16) run it through them and set up some mounts to hold the allthread so that the control arm can swing freely but without play, then make a mount that holds the end of the balljoint and make sure its pretty stout and not gonna move, then if you cut right behind the ball joint mount, let the control arm swing down off the mounting points you can then step your control arm without changing any geometry im pretty sure...