Saturn Ion Hydro Build

Well I took the leap a few weeks back and got a used Hydro kit from a guy locally. The kit is 2 CCE comp pumps with dumps and accumulators, 2 6" cylinders with powerballs and 2 4" cylinders with powerballs. It also came with some solenoids. So far all I have done is build a pump rack and start to get my cylinders figured out. So far I have gutted a stock strut and test fit one of the 6" cylinders in it (perfect fit) but I'm tempted to get the hydrohaulics cylinders so that I have some adjustability. And then use my 6" cylinders for the back. I was going to replace them all for 8s, but I think the hydrohaulics cylinders for the front and my used 6s in the rear will be fine for now. Heres a pic of the trunk so far. The basic concept is you open the trunk and theres 2 pumps and a wall behind them. Behind the wall will be 1 sub (2 if I can fit them) and then 2 batteries to run the hydros. Trying to keep it simple and working before I start to get to deep into it. Yes I know the pumps are mounted to wood, but I plan on running a 2 guage wire from the pump rack to the floor to ground it.  As for front cylinders and bearings I had this idea.  Basicly the strut in the sleeve with the mounting plates (obviously) and then for the top screw in a power ball and weld that to the upper plate. This should give me the movement I need without binding and also give me a 'bearing'. Anyone seen any issues with this? I will post more pics as I progress, but the car is a DD and I do 100k a day to work and back, plus I have very limited access to tools, so the build is slow. I'm also a university student so the budget is some what tight.

You drive 100,000 a day to work and back? Where do you work, on the moon? J/K You need to create a HTML code for your pics, then paste them after clicking the html button at the bottom of the reply box. For the front, you can buy the cylinders with sleeves and powerballs from Hydroholics.net. Make tabs that will bolt to your spindle and weld those to the threaded sleeve. Then make a plate for the top mount and weld the powerball to the bottom side of that. If you do this, you won't need to cut up your factory strut. When you run your hose out of the bottom of the cylinder, the best way is to run two 90 degree fittings. Then run the hose straight up the side of the cylinder assembly. Then loop it down against the unibody and clamp it there with enough slack to allow for up and down travel and the wheel turning. 

 Looks like a great start, but that "air ride equipped' sticker should be the first to go!  I would definately use 8's in the front especially since you're using accumulators.  I had 6's in the front of a civic I juiced a while back and they would max out on large bumps.  Can't wait to see some progress!  Also, you may want to think about upgrading the check valves...the ones on there now have a tendency to fail and it's a lot easier to replace them now then later when everything is full of fluid.  Great choice on going with hydros.   -Aaron 

Awesome...my suggestions would be to run something a little longer than 6's in the rear. Also be sure that the pump blocks are grounded since I see the rack is secured down by wood. 

I would also run 8's in the front, and 8-10 in the rear.. I run my struts the same way, powerball up top, and two 90* fittings. This works great.

Glad to see you made the switch! Keep us posted with updates. PS...if the cylinders you currently have are from CCE, do yourself a favor and get some from Hydroholics.  Those CCE cylinders have a horrible reputation.

Small update, I just ordered 2 cylinders, sleeves and powerballs, that means I now have almost everything to get the front done. And to anyone looking at other products. Hydrohaulics prices are a bit higher then some, but considering what you get for the money I feel its fair. The power balls were the same price as anywhere else. The cylinders were a bit more, BUT, with the threaded sleeves your looking at 150 for 2, but it allows you to thread it till you like it before securing it down, and lets say you do blow a cylinder, atleast you can just order one and replace the cylinder rather then have to cut it out (which I would have had to do if I went with the stock struts with a hydro cylinder welded in). Also the customer service so far has been be far the best I've had from any automotive company. I think in the end its an extra 40 bucks after exchange. For that amount I'd rather go for good service.

hydrohOlics

so with my cylinders and what not due to arrive tomorrow I have a question for the hydro guys. In my pic above you can see my front strut idea. (Upper mount then power ball then cylinder). Because of the size difference between the powerball base and the strut. I was going to get a 5 1/8" round plate to cap off the upper mount and then weld the power ball to that. I called a friend of mine and he can get me either 1/4" thick steel to plate it OR 5/16". Obviously thicker is better, but 1/4" is thicker then the metal used for the upper mount. Is 1/4" ok or should I go with the 5/16th? Also I have a pair of donor struts and I was wither going to build a set of mounting plates for the struts, but the stock struts just have the mounting points welded on. I was thinking of cutting them off and having those welded on. Any input?

Hey Adam, I've always used 1/4" plate for my top mounts.  Just drill it out to match the bolt pattern of your struts bolts and bolt it in (with the powerball welded to it).  In some cases we've actaully had to recess the powerball into the plate so the vehicle would lay out.  Here's a picture (these collars and cylinders are not threaded, so you will have an advance there):          Regarding the bottom, I'd just cut some tabs that match your factory strut mounting ears.  Best of luck.  Can't wait to see it finished. -AaronHydroholics.net