tre5
+1y
The reason you normally run a longer cylinder in the rear is because the front is mounted on an arm (lower control arm, I beam, whatever), so there is leverage on it. Basically you get more than 8" of lift from a 8" cylinder because it is mounted inward on the arm. In the rear the cylinders are normally mounted on the axle, so it is not a leverage setup. A 10" cylinder only gets 10" of lift in the rear because of this. So basically 8's in the front and 10's in the rear will lift the vehicle close to level when locked up. For the mounting of the cylinder up front you should get the stock spring and shock mount out of there. Just grind off the rivots holding it on and completely remove the entire thing. Then you will need to make a plate off the frame with the correct size hole in it (size of the hole depends on what cylinders you buy). I would mount it towards the top of the frame then gusset the sides downward. If you are using Hydroholics cylinders then get the adjustable threaded colar so you can adjust it to the prefect height. If not then just use a tube to space the cylinder correctly. For the lower mount you are going to have to fab up a mount for a heim joint. Use the radius arm bolts. Basically an upsidedown fork... two tabs on the sides with holes for the heim joint bolt and a hole in the bottom plate for the radius arm bolt. I don't have pics, but if you want... since you are in town I could come by to "show you the light."