Paintjob. First Timer

Edited: 5/9/2010 9:19:18 AM by low mazda


OK guys. I backing into a guard rail at work the other day. I had intentions on painting my truck this summer, and want to do it my self. Other than the small 2 inch spot where i hit the guard rail, my truck is dent-free. I won't need to do any body work, but if so, just the minimal amount of mud. Question is though, what are the proper steps to getting a good decent paint job on a daily for a first timer.
 
I am going to use the ready mixed paint they sell at AutoZone. I know this isn't what most would recomend, but for my first time, I don't want the headache of mixing reducer, hardener and all that. I used some of the ready mixed on a boat and a camper with no problems, but I want my truck to look good. I want to two tone my truck, so any help, procedures, guidelines and tips would help.
 
BTW, it's a 88 GMC. It's maroon now, and I want to two tone it silver and blue, or just solid blue, so I know the door panels and pretty much everything has to come out, since I'm doing a color change. Here's a pic of the truck. I am going to throw a newer model grille and lights on it when I paint it.
 

Any help or tips will be greatly appreciated!

To start yes strip the truck of panels, latches, mirrors, handles, and so on.Then you need to give it a good clean with wax and grease remover.Then we wash the truck with dawn detergent soap to make sure the surface is really clean.If no body work wet sand the truck with 400 or so.Rewash and let the truck drip dry.Mask the truck ensuring hands are grease free.Time to start painting. This is what I have picked up, at the minimum it is a start to try your own.  Good luck post pics as you go.

Fester has it done as to start but go to your local paint store and get the colors ready to spray instad of using Duplicolor from autozone. And buy a decent HVLP gun to spray with.Some people on here may diagree with me on the duplicolor but personally id spend a few extra dollars and get the good shit for a better finish.

*Disagree  and the better then prep work the better the finish

Edited: 5/9/2010 3:48:02 PM by bamfben

i will ad a few things also,  if your painting it a solid color use 400 grit wet if metallic use 600 and sand with the direction of the body line, then wash it the truck real good and use a air blower to blow out all the jambs and let every thing dry real good.  then use a wax and grease remover and clean every thing you sanded before masking then after masking do it again. then get a sealer one or 2 coats, if your using a light color use white sealer, reds and greys use grey dark or black use black. when you spray most sealer and base you spray with a 50 percent over lap which basicly is you spray one pass then the next you spray half way over it. and to set up the spray pattern  you want the gun about 8 inches away from the panels with about a 6-8 x 1-1 1/2 in spray pattern.

also get a disposable water trap and a regulator for the spray gun

So, if I'm not needing body work, I can just wet sand and start painting? Do I still need to use a high build primer? I do have a couple small spots that are going to need body work. How far do I go with paint removal on those 2 spots? I will need some bondo and sealer on those, I know, but what about the rest of the truck?

only use high build if its got body work or in spots with deep scratches that you had to sand out, just make sure you use a primmer sealer on the whole truck so you dont get any bleed through and have alot of blotchy looking spots.  finsh you body work with 100 grit after you block it out.  feather sand the paint around that with 220 then sand the outer perimeter of that with 400 and just high build you body work spots. make sure when you mask the body work spot to reverse mask it so you dont make a hard edge in the primmer and dont srpay right up to the masking tape. then block the primer spots out with 220 dry,  400 wet then sand in the dirrection of the body line with 600 since your doing metallic.

man i could tell u ten different ways to prep a truck correctly. WHAT I FOUND and ive painted over 500 full paint jobs. bodywork is simple... small dents start with 80 keep it tight to ur bondo meanin don't scratch outside where u apply. get it near feathered with that. you may guide coat if ur not sure. then switch to 150. keep it tight still.  go around the area with 320. do not sand filler with anything less than 150. 320 is mainly to make your primer feather out when u wet sand. mask a bigger area and spray primer inside your mask. most of the time on full paints i just mask off my vitals (windows, wheels, plastics) because usually we take the cars pretty far apart(anything that touches paint). start out only blocking primer with 320 wet then switch to a higher grit.  if your shooting a solid use 600 and metallics and pearls need 800. i suggest guide coat every step for beginners. scuff the rest of your paint with the higher grit be it 600 or 800. sealer is a must overall. if u get a lot of dirt in a lot sealer u can lightly sand it after it sets up but u will need to come back with a thin coat to restore adhesion. then base, then clear. the art is in the spray technique. i alway do back to front down to up. start at the top you get holidays at the bottom. very important most guns have a sweet spot find that out. my iwatas i always run them three turns out for base 2 for fan and 2.5 turns out for clear 2 turns out for fan. if you want to know all the tricks of it call me i'll confuse u.