PAINT COLOR SHADE

600 is what use for base also sometimes 400 for solid colors.but hes talking single stage metallic and 600 would tear the hell out of the metallics its way too harsh i would say for a single stage metallic.i dont even recommend cut and buffing single stage metallics.but a single stage solid done right and cut and buffed can look amazing

your not gonna burn threw with 6 or 8 hundred that fast as long as you stop when its flat ive always done 3-4 coats clear then wet sand with 800 then recleard 1000 grit take way to long and is pretty fine and they say never to sand with anything finer than 1000 grit for relcears but in his situation it doesnt matter because you can not sand metallic single stage it will make all the metallics silver again and look like shit you may be able to get away with scuffing it with a grey pad but im not sure being ive never tried

thanks for all the input really appreciate it

garreth, what paint you going to use. I single stage stuff all the time, and clear while its wet, and my shop has been doing so for 30 years. I can probably answer any questions you got.

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by baggedblue75600 is what use for base also sometimes 400 for solid colors.but hes talking single stage metallic and 600 would tear the hell out of the metallics its way too harsh i would say for a single stage metallic.i dont even recommend cut and buffing single stage metallics.but a single stage solid done right and cut and buffed can look amazing---------------------------------------------u cant sand or skuff a single stage metallic without damaging it.    for the op. shoot the car at one time. u can clear over single stage. some need longer flash. usually  1-8 hours to clear over.  u wont get more depth out of it.  if u have the single stage use it. if not get a basecoat clear.

clearin over single stage is not really an advantage in anything. just use base. sometimes i sigle stage things first for graphics to go on later just because it covers better like black or white or red. it saves a little on materials. if ur working with a metallic just us base, the flop is far superiour and u can match it later on if u use the same paint u started with. its better to do things that u know will work than to try things that are not the standard. hes right u cannot scuff a metallic without ruining it. try this man if u want to safe money but not time. spray it with the desired color (single stage)then take and sand it with 600 or 800. make up a quart of the same color in base. spray a coat or two down and clear it. that way u save on the base clear. i have a strong foundation and u can easly match it later the same way. Az Art 

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by sik_kreations---------------------------------------------Originally posted by baggedblue75600 is what use for base also sometimes 400 for solid colors.but hes talking single stage metallic and 600 would tear the hell out of the metallics its way too harsh i would say for a single stage metallic.i dont even recommend cut and buffing single stage metallics.but a single stage solid done right and cut and buffed can look amazing---------------------------------------------u cant sand or skuff a single stage metallic without damaging it.    for the op. shoot the car at one time. u can clear over single stage. some need longer flash. usually  1-8 hours to clear over.  u wont get more depth out of it.  if u have the single stage use it. if not get a basecoat clear.--------------------------------------------- everything u said is exactly what i said in my previous post.you cant sand single stage metallics and if you were going to reclear ove single you pretty much going to have to let it dey first then get it ready for clear.your saying 1-8 hrs every single stage ive used is catalized and is pretty hard within an hour and pretty much fully cured around 8 hrs.has anyone on here ever seen how good a single stage black or any solid single stage looks when you cut and buff it like a base/clear?i know people with customs and streetrods that have had this fore years on there cars and it still looks new.im not talking a maaco or miracle job im talking name brand single stages.my s-10 is northstar single stage black right now just to go over bodywork.but it looks better than half the paint jobs i saw at the last show i was at and i sprayed in my garage cuz my shop is full

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by baggedblue75---------------------------------------------Originally posted by sik_kreations---------------------------------------------Originally posted by baggedblue75600 is what use for base also sometimes 400 for solid colors.but hes talking single stage metallic and 600 would tear the hell out of the metallics its way too harsh i would say for a single stage metallic.i dont even recommend cut and buffing single stage metallics.but a single stage solid done right and cut and buffed can look amazing---------------------------------------------    u cant sand or skuff a single stage metallic without damaging it.    for the op. shoot the car at one time. u can clear over single stage. some need longer flash. usually  1-8 hours to clear over.  u wont get more depth out of it.  if u have the single stage use it. if not get a basecoat clear.---------------------------------------------everything u said is exactly what i said in my previous post.you cant sand single stage metallics and if you were going to reclear ove single you pretty much going to have to let it dey first then get it ready for clear.your saying 1-8 hrs every single stage ive used is catalized and is pretty hard within an hour and pretty much fully cured around 8 hrs.has anyone on here ever seen how good a single stage black or any solid single stage looks when you cut and buff it like a base/clear?i know people with customs and streetrods that have had this fore years on there cars and it still looks new.im not talking a maaco or miracle job im talking name brand single stages.my s-10 is northstar single stage black right now just to go over bodywork.but it looks better than half the paint jobs i saw at the last show i was at and i sprayed in my garage cuz my shop is full---------------------------------------------  it depends on the brand of and what type... arcylic enamel, arcylic urethane, or polyurethane.  ive seen the time for clearing vary. yes up to 8 hours.  but ur right,  a single stage solid, like a red or black, looks wayyyyyyy better then a base clear of the same color. (im talking full show paint job)  for blacks. a black nitro laq job looks like a dream. or even a acrylic enamel job.. then the urethanes.   on period correct car, i  love the look of lacquer. a uro cant touch it.

I wouldnt waste my time doing it that way. Like everyone is saying,  it would be a b!tch to get the single stage and clear to do what you want.  But back to your intial question, the likeliness of you getting your bed to match 100% a month later, and using a completely different method, really is slim to none.  All you are going to do is waste a lot of time and money in materials to get an unfavorable end result that you will want to re-do imediately. Not trying to knock you, just dont want to see you waste your time or money...