Nissan Nate Hardbody (FULL BUILD)

The ideas look good. I like the out of the box stuff too. you will need to mount that battery more than you have or you will ripp the ground nut out of the battery. Those threads are made of lead and they are not very strong. Def not strong enough to hold the weight of a battery. I would also put some type of joints in that brake setup. With what you have going it will be solid at first but as you use it all that metal on metal contact is going to wear out and cause some slop. Even use some cheap heim joints will work perfect. Sorry I dont mean to be negative, just a little constructive criticism.

UHMW, BRONZE, OILITE COULD MAKE A GOOD BUSHING FOR YOUR BRAKE BOOSTER PARTS TO SLIDE THROUGH. DID YOU DESIGN THE BRAKE SET UP? NICE RECOVERY ON THE REAR BAG SET UP.

I appreciate all the criticism. On the brake setup, there are hard plastic bushings that I have for it but was waiting for him to paint everything up before they are inserted. Though without the bushings in it now, and the slop it has it works very good. But if those plastic bushings don't work I will give those bronze bushings a shot. On the battery, I definitely hear you on the vibration and all, I had the same though, cause there is pretty much no thread inside of that optima. But yes it is very very solid mounted it just looks like its being held up by the post. I may add a flexible ground to the other post just in case it pulls out of the threads or he cross threads it and has no ground.

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jaredmXG said:

Sweet, You do some good work. I will ask the owner if he wants one done of it, and let you know. You do charge for them right?

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yes sir. it's a very good rate though for hand-drawns.. just shoot me an email

Floor and Firewall are sick!.. good work!

Thanks James. Well got a few more hours put in on it tonight and the other night. Yesterday capped the inner fenders, and started on the valve box. Tonight we built the steering linkage and finished the valve box. In the pictures everything is just sitting there not mounted.

Next up, I still have to weld a little bit on the underside of the frame and the cab floor. Then I'm going to trailer it up to Nates paint shop so he can shoot the frame and all the bare metal on the cab. This weekend it should be sprayed for sure. As soon as he gets done with the frame, it will be ready for all the lines, brake, fuel, air, and electrical.

how would you get to your vavles if it were layed out and had probs getting to to lift? looks dope tho!

haha very carefully. I ask Nate if he would rather take his bed off to get to the box, or jack it up to drop the cover off of the box. He said he would rather jack it up cause he can do that by himself, which is true. he will just have to get it up about 12+" if he wants to mess with them. plus if he has to the whole box can unbolt, though everything is going to be hard lined to it, it might be difficult.

well spent about 9 1/2 hours up at the shop yesterday, stripping and grinding down welds on the frame. There was just enough time to roll the frame in the paint booth to shoot the rust converter on the frame. It was a fun day at the paint shop. I left my house at 7am and got home at 10:30pm.Today we went back up there and worked on it for about 3 1/2 hours putting some sealer on the frame and welding up the rest of the cab. We also had enough time to spray some of that rust converter on the cabs bare metal.

lookin really good, is the tube work in the back done in schedule 40 steel pipe?