Project D350 Build Thread

where did you get that intake i got a  305 tbi and want that intake ...want it to look like a lt1 or something i know all 350 prts bolt up..nice build by the way

oh and if you were closer id let you use my plasma to cut u parts but that would be a long drive from az to fl

Edited: 3/1/2009 10:29:57 AM by iLLblazer

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by D350Edited: 2/10/2009 9:28:58 PM by D350August 17, 2008Ok this sucked so bad it gets it's own entry with it's own date.



For those of you who have access to high quality plasma cutters... I envy you.



It took me 4 plus hours to make 4 rear axle four-link brackets out of 3/8 inch plate steel.  "Why didn't you just BUY brackets, Aaron?"  Because I needed brackets that are mathematically  correct with anti-squat in mind.    Duuude I laser cut one-off brackets to peoples dimensions all the time for no more than 'off the shelf parts' Looks like your stuff turned out ok but damn man, there are options out there. LOL. I'm hoping your home made tabs arent done though cuz square edges and stuff like that really kill the overall look IMO. And other than that everything is pretty cool. Did you brace that cab at all before cutting out the entire structure though??

how bout some updates!

Damn.  I haven't been on for a while.  Was beginning to think no one was watching.  Whoops!   I'll try and update this evening.  Check back.    Hey, Joel... I'm slow, but you'll eventually find out what happened to the squared corners.  And the cab is nice and solid. 

Hey, Tom.  The intake is just the stock Tuned Port Injection plenum that came stock in the late 80s Firebirds and IROC Camaros.  All I did was paint it.  You can buy an entire aftermarket TPI plenum and runner system from Jeg's that will blow this thing away.  Pretty spendy though.

I've lost track of project dates somehow...   Sometime in MID September!!!   I built a Watts Link to keep the axle centered under the bed.  I did a lot of research on the Watts and found out that it's exactly what I wanted for multiple reasons.   Reason #1 is the Watts Link keeps the axle perfectly centered between the fenders no matter what height the truck is at.  This was important to me because the wheels and axle I chose left me almost no room for movement between the bed walls.  When fully aired out there is less than a quarter inch of space between the tires and the outer wall of the bed.  A pan hard bar pivots on an axis generally on the truck frame which forces the axle to follow a semi circle and end up off center either when fully aired up or fully aired out... depending on how it's set up.   Reason #2  I'm too tired to explain at the moment but the Watts Link promotes better handling in hard cornering by providing a very low "roll center".   I'm repeating myself I'm sure but my main focus on this build is to build an excellent handling Street Touring racing machine disguised as a Minitruck.   I'm taking measures to make it sexy, but function is my first priority.   ANYWAY!  I shopped for Watts Link kits and was amazed to find people are asking upwards of $600 and $800 for crap!  So I decided to build my own.   I knew I needed a propeller with a bearing strong enough to handle the forces of the trucks weight shifting back and forth.  I also wanted to make sure that if it ever broke or wore out, I could easily replace it.  One day at work I replaced a rear wheel bearing assembly on a Toyota Camry.  I realized this was the bearing I was looking for.  It's a complete assembly with the wheel hub attached and a 4 bolt base for easy mounting.  It supports a quarter of the Camry's weight so I knew it would be plenty strong.  I went to the junk yard that weekend and removed the 4 adjustable control arm bars from the rear suspension of another Toyota Camry.  These bars support the car under hard turning so again I figured they'd be plenty strong.   In the photos you'll notice that I mounted the wheel hub to a mandrel bent steel arch.  I had to make this arch removable so that I could access the gears in the differential if necessary.  Here's the end product.         I also began framing out my drive shaft tunnel and transmission tunnel.         Finally, I began testing a plan I had for flaring the front fenders in order to get the wheels to tuck completely.  Simply put I sliced the fender along one of the body lines and allowed the wheels to push it out.  I'll figure the rest out later.    

I love this truck build! great job man!

this is one awesome build thread!!

thats badass man. I wanna come check it out sometime. good job!