A/C Evap Lines & Compressor Side Lines B2200 (Needed)??

Thats true as long as they work and don't leak is all that matters really, good news said they could do the lines from $65-$95 depending on the work that had to be done, does that sound about right? cusser thanks

Yes, reasonable price. About 2002 I paid $50 to have one hose fixed.

And slim chance to find perfect-fitting hoses for yours in a parts yard.

Yeah I agree, & I'm just ready to get it done to get some ac blowing, u have also convinced me to go back to r12 as these systems are really made for r12, and r12 is still available! I have a mechanic friend that is 609 certified and can get r12 relatively easy & I've always thought it's such a better refrigerant as far as how cold it gets and lubrication of the system, but thanks for your help, ill let u know how it goes when I get the hoses done

Right - and remember that refrigerant is not a consumable item, should last forever as long as no leaks or major breakdowns.

Looky what i got today! almost done!, Cusser one last question maybe you could help? on the pressure switch i wire one prong to the compressor correct and the other pressure switch prong to the relay on the evap box. ok but on my evap box, the relay on the side.. the 2 prongs are already being used so do i split one of the prongs on the relay to connect to the pressure switch and if so which one? ill take pictures of my relay tomorrow if it would help thanks man

Those lines look great !!! This was definitely the way to go, I'm jealous !!

"on the pressure switch i wire one prong to the compressor correct and the other pressure switch prong to the relay on the evap box. ok but on my evap box, the relay on the side.. the 2 prongs are already being used so do i split one of the prongs on the relay to connect to the pressure switch and if so which one?" The de-icer/defrost switch on the evaporator box has two terminals. One (Black with Red stripe, BR) should come from the AC Relay switch, and the other one (Black with Yellow stripe, BY) goes to the pressure switch. Yes, the other terminal on the pressure switch goes to the compressor, and the compressor body is grounded, completes the circuit.

Yeah the hoses came out really nice!! & i agree this was the way to go! i probably would have never found the right hoses in part yards, now this is strange... i took a picture of the de-icer/defrost switch on the evap box.. weird thing is both the wires are black/red?? so its got me a little confused as to which one goes to the pressure switch?

One BR wire for the defrost switch should come from the bottom of harness in G-06 in above diagram, see the harness designations at the bottom. You can check which one using the multimeter ohmmeter function. The other defrost switch wire should go to pressure switch G-09.

Look at the G-09 AC Relay harness diagram above, I think it shows that GR wire to compressor might be BR.

Well Crap! i think i know why i was confused on the wiring diagram cusser got to looking at the evap box & harness.... im missing the relay that mounts on the evap box and my harness doesn't have the pigtail to the relay either, back to the drawing board! was thinking about getting a aftermarket 4 pin relay and wire it up as i go but i didn't know what amp the factory relay is? oh had another minor set-back also,....got into the evap box to put a new expansion valve on and the threads came off with the fitting. that's to be expected working with 20+ yr old parts! no worries though ordered a new evap core should be here next week

A new expansion valve may "appear" to be backwards from an original one, but the refrigerant flow will be fine, it's been redesigned since then. Plus the two larger fittings are different sizes and only go one way.

About 2002 my original B2200 evaporator somehow developed a leak right in its center, so I replaced mine with a copper/brass unit available in-town back then.