engine will not start

New guy here looking for some help. I have a 88 b2200 with a 2.2l engine.
The problem the engine will turn over but will not start.
What I have done. Replace spark plugs, plug wires, coil, distributor cap and rotary button. Checked the timing belt all is good there.
I've put a little gas in the carb still will not start.
I've pulled a plug and I am getting a weak. Red/white spark.
I'm at a loss. I got spark ( even though it's not a good one) and fuel and it still will not start?

Will the ignition control module in the distributor cause the weak fire?

Do a compression test. If your timing belt has jumped a tooth it might still crank the cam around but the engine won't have enough compression to fire.

What should the compression numbers be?

At least 120; that would be the minimum. How many miles do you have on the engine? The other thing you might need to check is to make sure the lower timing belt pulley hasn't hogged out on the crankshaft. The timing belt would look fine but your compression would be low.

About 152,00 on the engine
I'll get the compression numbers this evening

Today I had the opportunity to work on it a while. I could not get my fingers into the spark plug area to get my compression tester tight enough to work properly.

I checked for spark on all cylinders again there is spark there just very weak and erratic.
I'm thinking I have a spark issue.
I pulled the Infiniti on control module out and checked it the best I could with a multie meter.
I have 12 volts to the two male plugs with ingnition switch on engine off.
I uploaded a photos
Red is 12 volts
Green only has 1 volt

I checked to see it the circuits where grounded (together some where) after I pulled the icm
The bottom male blade plug is not together with anything so I'm asumming that's incoming power?
The top male blade plug is together with everything circled in blue.
I'm assuming the ice is bad? Am I correct it's assuming that?

Seems like you are fixated on replacing a lot of expensive parts with the hope that that alone will somehow get you past this non-starting issue. That is the "throw money at it" repair method. What have you invested already . . . plugs, a coil, wires, a cap, and a rotor and lots of time that hasn't given any results. What I suggested is do a compression test and because you couldn't do that it somehow must be ok. That test doesn't cost you any money. If you replace the ignition control module (more money) and it doesn't fix the problem you will be in it for more money and you will still need to do a compression test to rule out low compression. There are a lot of auto parts store that can test modules, but because you are getting spark I don't think that is your issue. The way ignition control modules work is they are grounded through the mounting base and they ground the coil when they are in phase with the iron reluctor that rotates on the distributor shaft.

/end rant

First off if I was willing to "throw money at the problem" I wouldn't be asking for help

Secondly the reason it has new plug wires and plugs is because I had a plug wire get against the exhaust and Burnt it nearly into two pieces. So I went a head and done a tune up. You know replace normal wear items like distributor cap, rotor button, plugs. And wires since I didn't know the last time they where changed. But I guess perventative maitaince is throwing money at it just like jumping to conclusions onto why these parts where changed.


I never said the compression "somehow must be ok"
What I said was I could not test the compression with the tester I have because I can not get my fingers in there to tighten the tester up there for it was bypassing the fitting.

So I did what I could do since "I am fixated on swapping parts" and that was check electrical parts of the distributor for malfunctioning parts since my spark is 2-4 seconds in between sparks on every cylinder while rotating the engine over with the starter. I guess since I have some sort of spark that's normal as well.

My compression tester has like a 10-inch tube which I screw into the spark plug hole, then I attach the compression test gauge. Try O'Reilly or Autozone for a free loaner compression tester.

Mine has 4 different threads adapters then a 10-12" tube
I screwed the adaptor onto the tube then screwed the assembly into the spark plug hole but It's so tight around the plugs I can not get my hand in there to finish tighten the adaptor so it doesn't bypass the adaptor. I may try a pair of needle nose vise grips to finish tighten the adaptor.
I will Have to wait a day or so it's pouring rain and the truck is not in a shop.