someotherguy brianbgboy or anyone that think they can help

Yeah in my experience temperature sensors (including the ones for the gauge) don't work unless the liquid is touching them.

So it's acting better now?

As far as air pockets I usually drill a few small holes in the flat part of the thermostat to bleed air.

Richard

yeah lets hear the update pig?

well thats wasn't the magical cure it ran good for a couple days now its running worse but it only does it once its warmed up and im getting code 44 witch is a lean o2

heres what its doing once it warms up and your cruzing down the freeway at lets say 70mph I hit a small incline in the road and you give it a little gas to keep your speed up it goes flat like its being choked and starts loosing speed by the time you make that small incline your speed is about 60 and you cant get it to speed back up once your on the flat. but to day i cant hardly give it gas in revers with out it chokeing out

with these long hours that I'm working I don't have time to work on it but I need to drive it so I can have my tools at work

Have you checked your fuel pressure yet...T into the line at the filter and run a long hose on the gauge, hang it under your wiper arm, be sure you clamp everything up so it's not gonna leak or come off. Go for a drive and hit a hill so the problem comes up, see what your pressure is reading. Early TBI big block should be same pressure as a TBI small block, 9~13 psi but I'd be happier to see it above 9. (94-95 are the oddballs at 26~32 psi due to an injector redesign and higher pressure pump to go along w/them.)

Would also be a good idea to test your TPS, it's been for freakin' ever since I bothered to test one because I hardly ever see them bad but it does happen. I'll see if I can dig up the info on it. It's only got 3 wires, basically you're wanting to see a range of one voltage to another with no spikes or dead spots in it. If you think you'll have time to check it I'll dig up the info. But not if you're gonna read it and never get around to it.

Richard

yea I put new fuel pumps in it in feb. and I have a gauge on the back of the tbi and I've bumped my pressuer up to about 11psi I'm going to swap out the tps with one that I have on the shelf and see what that does. but I'm starting to think we put to much degree in the cam, so I'll keep playing with everthing eles before I tare back into it to check the cam

this son of abitsh is starting to make me very upset
so I get up alittle eary to day so I can change out the tps and the map well i take it out for a run and low and behold its doing the same thing but now I'm getting a egr code instead of the lean 02 like I was. OBD 1's can make the happy hippy a pissed off pope in a hurry because I think its just grasping at straws also

well my heads getting sore from me beatting it aginst the wall trying to fix this thing if anyone has any ideas toss them out because I'm about to go out and replace all the remaining sensors just to eleminate them then go from there

im getting pissed

Brother I'm all out of suggestions, this is the kind of crap that is hard to t-shoot long distance.

I just spent the whole evening trying to make a pos parts truck crank, it ran a month ago no problem and no changes between then and now, just wouldn't fire. Had spark but looked a little weak. All the fuel pressure in the world. I tried a dozen different things and beat on it for a few hours. Finally went back in the distributor and pulled the rotor, which looked fine on top, fucker was wet underneath and looked further the whole distributor was full of water. Damn heavy rains we had got past the hood seal because it was popped, filled up the distrib and still hadn't dried out.

I blasted it with WD40 and then blew it out with air, put it all back together and it runs fine now. F'in ridiculous...

Richard

Sorry PIG, this stuff scares me. would it be cheaper to buy a trans comp, and disconnect the comp system?

ha ha erock I would but look at it like this I have a horsepower fetish and that computer is keeping me in check and it cheeper to fix it then start changing so off the top of my head here's some numbers
my throttle body I have almost $500 in it
the msd distributor was like $250
now if I went to a carb that would cost me about $400 for the carb then I'd have to buy a mechanical or electronic advance distributor $250+ hell now I don't need a vacume signal so I'd have to have a bigger cam thats another $500 and now the fucking heads arn't flowing so here's another 2g's Oh christ that new tranny's not holding up lets go through that agine. I already have a black hole in my wallet and its setting in my dads shop agine, so I'll spend the $100 on a sensor and drive this thing