HELP!!!! Truck wont start..

WELL IM GUESSING THAT IT DOESNT HAVE FACTORY KEYLESS ENTRY CAUSE I COULDNT FIND ANY BOX OR ANYTHING WITH THAT COLOR WIRES COMING OUT OF IT.

ANOTHER THING IS THE ALARM DOES NOT EVEN HAVE THE HARNESS FOR THE WHOLE FACTORY BYPASS DEAL SO THEY DIDNT PUT IT IN TO BEGIN WITH.

IT IS A CODE ALARM.

WHEN YOU SAY ERASE EVERYTHING DO YOU MEAN CODES? CAUSE THERE ARE NONE.
OR DO YOU MEAN DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FOR A WHILE?

AND WHEN YOU SAY DIRECTED ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT THE XPRESS KIT? OR ANOTHER BRAND MODULE FROM THEM?

AND WHEN I LOOK ON THERE WEBSITE I AM COMPLETELY OBLIVIOUS TO WHICH MODULE TO GET.

TAHNKS
ROBERT

OH AND THANKS FOR THE PM. I APPRECIATE IT.

Ummm... not sure on the module, I can't find the right one on their website either and at their online store, the interface lookup isn't working, it won't let me select a year. I am not familiar with the express kits, they sound like they are easy to hookup, but not sure.

If it is not showing any codes, try unhooking the battery to get the light to go away, if it does then just try starting it with the key. If it doesn't come on, then try locking the doors with your remote, unlock them then try starting with the key. see what happens, if the light doesn't come on, try locking the doors with the remote, then try r/starting it. I can't remember if it was the trucks or s10 blazers that the only way to activate the factory alarm was to lock the doors with the door switch while it is open. So play around with that and see if you can get the light to come on or off. May be something as simple as a door pin switch or something. Your domelight doesn't happen to stay on, does it? A door pin switch can cause havoc on the security system as well.

I hope I am not confusing on all of this, just let me know and I can explain more if needed. The more I think about it, the more things come to mind that I have dealt with on GM vehicles in regards to r/s and factory security.

I TRIED UNHOOKING THE BATT FOR A WHILE AND IT DIDNT GO AWAY. AND IT STILL ISNT THROWING ANY CODE EITHER.
It starts up just fine with the key and no "rigged bypass" but when I try to start with the remote start it doesnt work. so I guess there method sort of worked. and I tried it again with the yellow wire disconnected and it didnt work. I think the last time when I said it did it was a coincedence.

like I said the light stays on constant but dim. and I dont really know about all my other lights being dim. I changed them all to leds.

I will try dinking around with the door locks to and see what happens.

not sure if my domelight stays on i always have the switch so they dont come on and i just replaced doorswitchs a few weeks agos.

oh and I had the same issue on the directed site.
So directed is a brand themselves? even though they have all them other brands? viper and what not...


Thanks
Robert

oh and there bypass was like 4 resisters or diodes i cant remember which ones are which.

Yup, using the right amount of diodes/resistors whichever ones, was a way to bypass them.

Directed is the parent company for all of those brand names, virtually all the same with different names and whatnot. Most of the features are the same, if not all on certain models. Just like chevy and gmc.

If you call crutchfield, they will be able to tell you the correct bypass as they are now a directed dealer. Or any local shop that carries any of their brands.

I am about out of ideas, the only one I have left is when you reconnected the wires when removing the bypass. Did you add wire to reconnect them? use butt connectors, solder them? What I am getting at is those wires are based on the ohm readings delivered by the tumbler to the computer, if you added in more wire or have a bad splice you may be affecting the reading. They are little damn wires and if I remember right there is no extra slack in them so reconnecting is a pain without adding wire which may be enough to throw it off, not sure though. I don't know how sensitive the computer is or how much that would, if any, change the reading. This one is a total shot in the dark.

If those wires are not the problem, or all of the problem, then there may be another issue lying in the factory security stuff that someotherguy had mentioned before. I can't help on how to diagnose those though, haven't messed with them.

The bypass module will get your r/s working again, and who knows maybe it will take care of the light too. Stranger things can happen.

cool man I will look into that at crutchfield. and I really appreciate all of your help.
it has given me alot of insite.

If any one can think of something like he said on how to diagnose these modules. let me know i dont want to have to take it to someone and then they end up messing it up even more. i would rather take that chance myself. haha

Thanks
Robert

Not to start a debate here but maybe just to clarify some terminology for the sake of the thread. In 1998 the fullsize trucks got Passlock, which is not a factory alarm, but it IS a factory theft-deterrent system. No siren, no horn, no keyless entry, etc. are associated with Passlock - it requires no arming or disarming, no fob...it will let you start the truck, but if the resistance in the tumbler does not match what the BCM is expecting to see, it kills the injectors immediately and flashes the SECURITY light on the dash.

Factory alarms were optional on the C/K trucks, as was keyless entry without alarm, but I don't think any came with it standard so that would probably be a true statement about the alarm.

Absolutely 100% agreed on that ghetto bypass. The system works on resistance values, and any extra connections pose the possibility of increasing the resistance which could cause it to fail (read differently than it should.)

Wire it back up as original, solder the connection and heat-shrink it for protection. Crimp connectors or twist & tape are really bad here, just as they are with sensor wires and grounds.

If once you hook it back up the SECURITY light continues to stay on, you may just need to do the security relearn. If you have persistent problems with it flashing the SECURITY light and killing your engine right after starting, I'd look into having it tuned out of the PCM if possible, because you can easily nickle and dime yourself to death trying to chase down problems in this system - and be utterly frustrated by an unreliable truck due to no-starts.

Richard

I can guarantee you "someotherguy" is dead on the $$. I had a 2000 with same situation drove me nuts and remote start. Alarm had nothing to do with it. AFTER I sold the truck I found out it was the ignition tumbler. I just bought another 2000 model with no remote start and guess what it did this morning? Turn the key on off and on again, walk away 15-20 minutes, and there ya go start the truck and drive away. Already replaced the tumbler this morning and problem and codes gone.

Seams like Chevrolet had a coomon issue here with the Passlock.

Cool that is extremely helpful I will try the relearn deal I found a couple places that show how to do it.
now you say to wire it all back to stock. would you recomend not having the remote start then? Or just go ahead and get the bypass module? or just skip all of that and do the retune?

Hey guys I really appreciate all of yalls help. It has helped me not want to give up and run it off a cliff... haha

Thanks
Robert