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Dually Suspension \  2 questions

2 questions

Dually Suspension Dually Tech
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replies 14
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wide load c-30   +1y
It is to my understanding that you need 3/4T hubs to lay a square out on semi's. I keep reading about guys making their control arms longer after doing this because it sucks the wheels in too much. I know lengthening the control arms gives more lift but is this mod done purely for aesthetic reasons or are the wheels sucked in so much after swapping to 3/4T hubs that the inner part of the wheels rubs on something? Does anyone have a pic of a square on semi's, with 3/4T hubs, and stock control arms?

Also I just got an '85 model C&C rear which I am going to have reabuilt before installing and I wanted to have the gears swapped while everything was apart. The C&C has 4.10's (same as my stock rear) and I wanted to swap to a numerically lower gear for lower revs on the highway since I am keeping my TH400 trans. The numerically lowest gear I can find for the 10.5" 14 bolt is a 3.73 from LMC truck. Does anyone make anything numerically lower?
rhmdually   +1y
if its a 14 bolt rear end you can get a 3.42 gear for it but its a factory gm gear which is why you cant find it, i have no idea about the dana 70 rears though
b dime   +1y
I thought you only needed 3/4 ton arms??
wide load c-30   +1y
Thanks RHMdually, I guess I'll go to the dealer and see if I can get some 3.42's for my C&C.

So do guys make their control arms longer when swapping to 3/4T hubs because it looks weird if you don't or because it is necessary?
maz89   +1y
it cuts down the amount of turning radius with the wheels being in so far, the wheels rub the frame in turning...
wide load c-30   +1y
Also I have read that 3/4T hubs are only needed if doing a body drop. Is this just for shitboxes or does this apply to squarebodies also? I just want to lay frame on 24's.
got6wls   +1y
3/4ton hubs/rotors will not work, you have to use 'Single Rear Wheel', Front rotors. The 3/4ton rotars are not correct, I tried this already no success. The offset of the hubs from 3/4t to 1t SRW is only about an 1/8th inch different. the bearings and seals are the same just the offset of the bearings inside is different. When you use the SRW front rotars the big 22/24 will rub on the inside of your frame. Alot of work is involved. It all depends on your originality like layindoor's truck. 3/4t stuff "LOOKS' similar and "LOOKS' like it will fit but it is all very much different. Im in the process of all this right now so I will post some pics on this. This has been gone over I think for quite some time extensively. But stay away from the 3/4t front stuff. For the rear, the 3/4ton axle is the same as C&C. The only difference is the brakes. For the most part you can bolt the adapters right up to the 3/4t rear.
nuklheadtattoo   +1y
My dually is BD on 22" semis...I have 3/4 rotors and had c-arms made longer to push my wheel out just enuff not to hit my fender and a c&c rearend.
wide load c-30   +1y
Please do post pics of the progress on your front end. I know this has been discussed before, many times. I just wish there was a sticky with info on what has been proven to work to lay on semi's on a square, with part #'s. I've already got my C&C for the rear it's the front end that has me confused.
got6wls   +1y
88-91 CK30/CK5 were the intermitant guinea pigs until the shitboxs were in full swing. Part numbers are infact different. I just tried this swap from my 3/4t to my 1t and had no success.