bag stuff info??

what im needing to know is, whats that valves, bags, lines, nice switchs, bag mounts yall use? i dont want to use cheap stuff cuz i plain to drive my truck alot all over texas.. i want some clean switchs not just a autozone rocker switch i see some people use.. i plain to use some nice gauges so i want a clean switch setup..

Kits vary, 3/8s lines r good DOT lines. 444 series compresssors. 1/2" valves or 3/8" depending on if u wanna go fast or slow. Switch preference I can get info from the guys who r REDO'n mine setup. They r putting a 7 switch box on mine. It's just a simple front back smooth switch. So a good setup would be 6-8 valves, 2 tanks 5-7 gallons, and 4 compressors. I hope this helps. And as I get more info from my guys I'll hook u up.

I'm also sure the pros with knowledge and experience on here will chime in with either corrections of my advice or proper additions....respectfully.


Hopes this helps and welcome

Yeah it help thank you bud.. I Google air bag switches and some nice switch setups in pictures came up.. I just plain to do a 2 switch setup cuz I just want the front to go up and down.. none of the side to side stuff..

I just need to know where the best places to buy bag parts from.. I tried to PM lil j cuz he lives close to me but haven't got a response in a few days..

dont go with a 2 switch setup you wont like it... use a 6 valve setup and run 3 switches.. front left fill/dump, front right fill/dump, rear fill/dump.. with some good shocks all the way around.. when you lift, then level the front the rear will always follow.. thats the easiest simplest way to bag a truck... as for parts there are alot of people to go through.. suicidedoors.com(not sure of their new name) mac springs, metal worx, lowrider depot, grant kustoms, guage store, and there are some others i forgot.. Billys above post is pretty spot on.. at least 2 compressors, 4 if you can afford it.. i would got with either the Viair 444's or the 480's.. 5 to 10 gallons will be good.. 3/8" valves will be good also, then to slow down the dumps on those get brass plugs to thread in to the dumps and drill a whole in them till you find the speed you like it to air out at... well i think i answer your questions.. if you got anymore just hit us up.. more than happy to help..

For most setups i reccomend a 6 valve setup with 3/8'' valves all around. These duallys can fit a 7'' diameter bag up front and an 8'' out back so i try to do that as ofen as possible for a smoother ride. I like using the viair 444s and try to stick with 6-8gallons for every compressor used. You can get an AVS switchbox if you dont want to mount them in the dash, i wouldnt reccomend a doghouse 10 switch box cause those are dangerous if you lean against a switch while going down the road. You can either get analog gauges and mount them in the pillar or dash or you can get a digital setup from Accuair or Dakota Digital. I would also wire up the compressors not only on a pressure switch but also on a master kill switch so you can shut them off even if they are running. Most these parts i carry on my site as well

ok sweet.. yall nailed most of my questions lol.. so dont run a 2 switch setup? do 2 switchs for just the front and 1 for the rear? i plain to mount the switchs in the center console along with the gauges, i was looking at something digital nice clean all in one kinda deal.. but i dont want a push button digital gauge cluster i just want digital gauges.. the switchs i want a the ones like you see that come with the helper bag kits.. the a-piller is going to be taking up with the gauges for the motor..

ok got another question.. i dont plain to pull a heavy car trailer but maybe a single axle 14ft trailer with maybe 800lbs on it.. so what kinda rear setup should i go with? 4 link, 2 bar, bag on rear end or on lower links? i will have a watts link not a pan hard bar.. as far as shocks i will be using double adjustable QA1 shocks on all 4 corners.. front and rear sway bars..

First off, great choice on shocks.. Im running the same ones with my hydros on the truck im building. yes just run 2 switches for the front, and 1 for the back. You can run any guages you want to with any switch combo.. As for the bag spot, bag on bars will ride better, but they will have an issue lifting the truck when you are loaded down with a trailer... I would parallel 4link with a watts link.. thats my favorite setup, then either do bag behind and below the rear axle with BIG bags... or if you have to over the axle... you can do a triangulated 4link with bag on bars, but you may have to air up before you hook up... Remember the bigger that bags you can fit the less air that will be required to lift the truck, therefore a better ride quality.. And what ever you do dont skimp on material thickness... do everything in at least 3/16".. I think that covered most.. let me know if you got anymore questions... oh and guilty by design is a good shop also.. hit him up if you need stuff..

cool deal thank you.. i will probley do the 4link with bags on top of the rear end.. all the metal im making a list for right now is 3/16 or 1/4 in thickness the pipe i will use to brace my notches from one side to the other i got some 1 3/4 DOM tubing for that.. i have a friend that has a tubing bender that i can bend round pipe up to 2" or square up to 2"...

how does a truck with the HE8 bags on top of the rear end ride? i dont want the truck to float like a old school caddy, but i dont want something i have to go get my back adjusted everytime i take a trip in it..

The RE8's will ride good.. your shocks will definitely help out alot.. Shocks make a hugh difference... they will keep it from floating..

I would suggest against a behind and under bag placement, especially with putting a load on it. When you place the bags there they try to clock your rearend (pull on the top bars compress lowers) This puts stress on everything that an over axle or lever setup wouldnt. A lever setup would of course stress the lowers but not nearly as bad as the other way. I like doing triangulated lever setups so you dont have to buy and find room for a watts link, but some people just swear by parallel setups. Its dependant on what you can afford and what you want to cut into.