My crew cab '86 square

ok so 225/75/16 on the steelies! why the cut out on the bed then! sorry for all the questions but I really dig your truck looks hella good and I want mine sorta lookin like that just to pull my show car!!!

Thanks for the compliments. With the narrower rear the inners were hitting the bed.

Man your Crew is looking good now it's time to bag that HOE!!!!!!

say bro your super clean!! wish I was like you!

Sorry for the truck being so dirty in the pics guys, just wanted to post some progress. I'm hardly ever home and when I am it's on the weekends and I got a bunch of errands to run. I don't even remember the last time I washed it and right now I can't drive it 'cause I need to get it aligned and step notched. I didn't get the bolt-in notch because I don't want the truck to ever bottom out.

So far I have added a Trick Flow deep pan for the TH400 to help keep temps. in check when torquing it out on the highway, new head unit and components, Billet Specialties "Rebel" steering wheel w/black half wrap because the dash is going to be black, a stainless shifter I fab'd at work, and all the interior billet accesories available from LMC-dash insert, front and rear door inserts, rear view mirror, pedals, instrument cluster insert, tilt steering handle/knobs, All the front crystal clear lights, crystal clear lights for the rear fenders and LED tail light coversion. And my rebuilt suspension includes new ball joints/tie rods, western chassis 3in. springs, Belltech 3 in. spindles, and Doetsch Tech drop shocks front and rear. Out back I ordered a western chassis 8.5in. flip kit but it didn't work with my C&C rear. The U-bolts were too big and the mounting plate would hit the drums since the rear end is so narrow. I had to mod the saddle for the leaf springs to make it work and used the stock u-bolts. I am also now running Pirelli Scorpion 315/30-24's out back with a 235/85-16 load range E inner and I had Dima Wheels mill 1/8" off of the back of the front wheels to bring them in a little although I don't think it was necessary. I decided not to bag the truck because I don't want to mess with the reliability that it has now. I have taken it back and forth to San Antonio a couple of times already without a single problem. Plus I want to finish it already, I still have a couple of things to do to the interior and I know the body work isn't going to be cheap.

Still has plenty of ground clearance.








There is stil plenty of room when turning so when the front fenders are cut out/tubbed I'm going to run a 275/30-24.





The rear fenders are "filled" up a lot more now with the wider meats and lower stance.

Square body guys now have an option for rear fender lights. The clear lights that LMC sells for the front fenders of '79 style front ends will work on our rear fenders.





So for the guys that have asked if you can run 24's on a 6/8 (more like 6/9) the answer is yes, it just takes a little more effort - narrower rear and tubbed out front and back.

looks good I like how it sets
yea you'll have some man hours in the body work. well in the block sanding part of it

It has a slight rake because of the tire size but, I want to add drop shackles after the step notch so it can tuck rim. I don't know whether to paint it another shade of red or paint it black, I think either would look good with the red interior.

i was reading your thread and i didn't see where you said

how much you narrowed your rear end?
and why did you have to narrow it that much it is for wheels clearance when lowered?

what is a C&C rear end


thanks
snapdaddy

A C&C rear is a Cab & Chassis rear end. I don't know how much narrower it is compared to the stock rear off the top of my head but, as you can see in one of the pics the drums are now real close to the leaf springs. And yes it is so the wheels can tuck inside the stock fenders when lowered.