sadistic636
+1y
Here is the rig the day I brought it home. Simply put f@#kin ugly. The p.o. was crafty and put pictures on Craigslist with the gate down and when I get there the damn thing is blue. Oh well.
It's the 7.3 idi with 256K on the clock. The back four tires had cords showing but the p.o. gave me 6 new tires that I just needed to put on myself. Also came with a Banks sidewinder turbo and gooseneck. Not terrible for $2500.
Day 2:
I had to paint the tailgate just to get by until I paint the whole thing and I sanded any surface rust on the rest of the truck to and rattlecanned it subdue any future rust. At the same time I sprayed those ugly wheels.
Fast forward a bit and I have thrown the new tires, two new batteries, new starter, and new glow plugs (p.o. had autolite garbage in it). She runs like a dream now.
I started preping for paint with the busted right rear fender. It was cracked in 7 places and the left lower portion of the wheel arch was completely missing after some fiberglass, bondo, and a lot of sanding its starting to look pretty decent. Its only been hit with 60 grit so far so its a little rough but i'll go over it agiain when I'm ready to due the whole truck.
Fiberglass:
Bondo:
Presto!:
The fender still needs some love but its miles from where it used to be. And that's where I stand right now. Hopefully within the next couple weeks I'll have it painted. Stay tuned...
It's the 7.3 idi with 256K on the clock. The back four tires had cords showing but the p.o. gave me 6 new tires that I just needed to put on myself. Also came with a Banks sidewinder turbo and gooseneck. Not terrible for $2500.
Day 2:
I had to paint the tailgate just to get by until I paint the whole thing and I sanded any surface rust on the rest of the truck to and rattlecanned it subdue any future rust. At the same time I sprayed those ugly wheels.
Fast forward a bit and I have thrown the new tires, two new batteries, new starter, and new glow plugs (p.o. had autolite garbage in it). She runs like a dream now.
I started preping for paint with the busted right rear fender. It was cracked in 7 places and the left lower portion of the wheel arch was completely missing after some fiberglass, bondo, and a lot of sanding its starting to look pretty decent. Its only been hit with 60 grit so far so its a little rough but i'll go over it agiain when I'm ready to due the whole truck.
Fiberglass:
Bondo:
Presto!:
The fender still needs some love but its miles from where it used to be. And that's where I stand right now. Hopefully within the next couple weeks I'll have it painted. Stay tuned...
sadistic636
+1y
My future plans include lowering and Volvo style semi wheels. I like the volvos but let's be honest I'm cheap and will take what I find.
I'd love to bag it but I've never bagged anything before and I know my crappy harbor freight welder isn't gonna cut it. I revise my previous statement... I'm cheap but not when it comes to the safety of me and the people around me. I'll stick with a static flip kit and I-beams for now until I muster up the courage to bag it myself (and when it's not my daily and I get a nice welder).
She's not a show truck so I'm gonna try the roll on rustoleum trick I've been seeing on YouTube. When prepped properly it can come out better than a lot of inexpensive paint jobs so I'm down. I've done a couple nice rattlecan jobs in my day so I'm confident the roll on method will be decent. The r1 in my sig was done with rattlecans
I'd love to bag it but I've never bagged anything before and I know my crappy harbor freight welder isn't gonna cut it. I revise my previous statement... I'm cheap but not when it comes to the safety of me and the people around me. I'll stick with a static flip kit and I-beams for now until I muster up the courage to bag it myself (and when it's not my daily and I get a nice welder).
She's not a show truck so I'm gonna try the roll on rustoleum trick I've been seeing on YouTube. When prepped properly it can come out better than a lot of inexpensive paint jobs so I'm down. I've done a couple nice rattlecan jobs in my day so I'm confident the roll on method will be decent. The r1 in my sig was done with rattlecans
krewzlo
+1y
Nice! I always liked that body style ford.
I see you ride a 03 636, I just bought an 04 a month ago and love it except been working on it more than riding lately. Had to replace the chain and sprockets, then the cush drive bearing went out, put all 3 bearings in the rear wheel and rode it about 30 miles and it went out again, allowing the cush drive to separate from the wheel pushing the sprocket bolts into the swing arm and messing that up. Now I have it torn down again, waiting on a new swing arm, cush drive, bearings and seals to put it all back together again... Summer will be over by time I get to ride again.
Good luck in the ford, should be bad ass when your done.
I see you ride a 03 636, I just bought an 04 a month ago and love it except been working on it more than riding lately. Had to replace the chain and sprockets, then the cush drive bearing went out, put all 3 bearings in the rear wheel and rode it about 30 miles and it went out again, allowing the cush drive to separate from the wheel pushing the sprocket bolts into the swing arm and messing that up. Now I have it torn down again, waiting on a new swing arm, cush drive, bearings and seals to put it all back together again... Summer will be over by time I get to ride again.
Good luck in the ford, should be bad ass when your done.
sadistic636
+1y
I had the same problem with my 636 except it went the other way an shoved the rear brake rotor bolts into the brake carrier. I have a set of '05-'06 wheels on it now with no issues.
This is the best shot I have of the wheels when I was rebuilding it
This is the best shot I have of the wheels when I was rebuilding it
krewzlo
+1y
Bad ass. They are fun bikes for sure. I found my issue was a missing spacer between the cush bearing and the wheel bearing putting side pressure on the bearing and exploding it. Hopefully that will take care of the issue when I get it back together.
Did the newer wheels fit right on or did you have to mod anything?
Sorry for hijacking your truck thread
Did the newer wheels fit right on or did you have to mod anything?
Sorry for hijacking your truck thread
sadistic636
+1y
No problem. Tropical storm here anyway so there's no truck progress to report. The wheels are not a direct fit. I have 07 front forks so the front fits just fine. With the 03/04 front end you need to use your stock brake rotors or make spacers for your calipers because the 05 rotors are larger. The rear just needs a custom spacer but I can't remember the size
sadistic636
+1y
Finally started to paint the rig. Sanded the whole truck with 220 then hit it with rustoleum primer. It was so hot out when I did it that I said F it and didn't even tape the windows. I'll getting it off later with mineral spirits. Sorry for the shitty iphone photos.
Sanded the primer with 400 and started painting. The "instructions" for the roll on paint say to thin the paint 50/50 with mineral spirits but that was too thin for the heat and humidity of Florida. I did like 75 paint 25 spirits.
I've only done the bed so far with 3 coats and honestly it hasn't turned out too bad. Tomorrow I plan on wet sanding with 600 and do the last 3 or so coats and then it will need cut and buffed. Next week I'll do the cab.
Sanded the primer with 400 and started painting. The "instructions" for the roll on paint say to thin the paint 50/50 with mineral spirits but that was too thin for the heat and humidity of Florida. I did like 75 paint 25 spirits.
I've only done the bed so far with 3 coats and honestly it hasn't turned out too bad. Tomorrow I plan on wet sanding with 600 and do the last 3 or so coats and then it will need cut and buffed. Next week I'll do the cab.
sadistic636
+1y
Decided to skip the static drop. I feel it's a waste of time for something I won't be satisfied with. I started collecting my airbag setup but it will take several months. I purchased a little Larry's touch
sadistic636
+1y
Heres the valve. Pretty sturdy construction and plenty of travel in the lever to adjust the fill/deflate speed. Paid like $150 for it. Only complaint is that the labels on the back are wrong the small 1/8 holes are for the gauges and the 3/8 are for the ports but being a smart guy I figured it out.
