jiffyzx6
+1y
Alright, let's start with the rear first since that's the easiest to explain.
The first thing you want to do is get lowering blocks/new u bolts. I suggest getting angled blocks to keep your pinion angle as level as possible. I would suggest getting 3 Inch blocks if your going to mono leaf (explain that more later) or 4 inch blocks if your not. Wouldn't go bigger than 4 inch IMHO but they do make them bigger. I went with 3 inch blocks but I also mono leafed it to get the biggest drop, let's say you just want to use lowering blocks I'd go with 4 inch blocks. to install the drop blocks you need to Jack the rear end high (so the axle can move and you have room to work) MAKE SURE YOU USE JACK STANDS ON THE FRAME AND NOT THE REAR!. There should be nothing touching the rear end when the truck is in the air. Remove the tires and get a (17mm?)deep socket for the 2 u bolts that wrap around the axle on each side, having an impact gun and some wd40 would help. Loosen the nuts almost all the way but keep them on until there all loose. At this point the axle should be moving freely (you'll understand what I mean when you see it) place your floor jack under the pumpkin (center of the rear end) just enough to when it's supporting the weight of the axle. Remove the ubolts (can be a pain Sometimes)
At this point you can install the new blocks and be done or you can mono leaf it. Mono leafing is when you take the leaf Springs appart, throw away all of the middle leafs and you end up with the main leaf and the small thick overload leaf... If you want to do this to I'll Wright up something for that later, it can be dangerous since there under tension but it's not to hard. I used 3 inch blocks when I mono leafed it and it rides great (little soft Sometimes) and I was still able to haul a decent amount of weight. Again, if you want to mono leaf I'll explain that later.
To install the new blocks it's pretty much the same process in reverse, if you got the angled blocks make sure that they are both angled down towards the rear of the truck (if you install them backwards you'll know because your drive shaft will be way out of line and just have to re do it) make sure your pin in the leaf Springs (you'll know what I'm talking about when you get there) is lined up with the hole on the bottom of the blocks and the pin on the Top of the blocks lines up with the axle. Install your new ubolts just like the old ones and tighten down evenly... You'll more than likely need to cut the bolts down because they come really long so bring a hack saw or cut off tool of some sort, when everything is lined up and your happy with how it looks/fits tighten the ubolt nuts, I usually torque them to 100ft/lbs then re check them every month or so because they will loosen up alittle over time.
That should be it for the rear, you won't get as much of a drop as you would think but it does help... I'm trying to post pics but my phones not letting me right now, I'll post them later.
Now for the front... Remove the wheels, Jack the front up and use 2 jack stand on the frame, make sure that you have plenty of room to work under there. The torsion bars are directly under where you sit in the truck, one on each side and they run from the center ish of the truck to the lower controls arms (arms that hold the spindle/hub/wheel on) you will see where the bar attaches to the LCA there's 2 bolts and where it attaches to the back side there's one long bolt. Soak all three with wd40... You'll probably need it. Start by removing the REAR bolt first, this will release the tension on the bar and make it so you can remove the front bolts. When the rear bolt is removed you can now remove the front two. Be careful to not separate the torsion bar from the end piece the two bolts go threw. When you've completely removed the bar take it and clean up the side that was up against the LCA, this will let you use a marker or paint pen and Mark both the bar and the mount at the same place, when you reindex the bar your removing the bar from the mount, turning it x amount of teeth and re installing it. Having this paint mark you made allows you to see how much you turned it or in a situation where you went the wrong way or to far allows you to put it back to where it was and start over again. Now when I did this i went 2 teeth and it worked out ok, but after mono leafing it I think I would go one more (3 teeth from stock). Let's stick with 2 teeth for now (going off the above assumption of you not mono leafing yet) when you get the bar loose from within the mount (might need a love tap from hammer) and your lined up at stock, hold it like it was in the truck and remove the bar, turn it 2 teeth the correct way and re install it. Turn the drivers side bar counterclockwise in the mount and the passenger side bar clockwise in the mount. After that re install the same way you removed everything. When it comes time to install the rear bolt again don't tighten it all the way down, this will raise or lower the front end! I would start by installing the bolt about half way on both sides and after lowering the truck back down measuring from the ground to middle of the fender, once you get both sides even you can adjust both bolts evenly to raise or lower the front end to your liking.
... After typing all this on my phone I realized that I suck at explaining things when I'm not there in person lol its really not hard at all and as long as you take your time and see how it works a make sure nothing is under tension when working on it you'll be fine. I'll link you to a good Wright up I used if what I just wrote wasn't helpful.