threads
Page 2 of 2
General Discussion \  Another newbee needing help lol

Another newbee needing help lol

General Discussion
views 2780
replies 19
following 6
 
bagged89mazda   +1y
wow-


nice art work - (i'm not joking you draw better then ME .)

You should make a plan - Stacey David (former host of trucks! ) Wouldn't have it anyother way - and its the best way to go about it -

Make a list like a to - do list with a time line- don't try and do the whole thing in a year- spread it out - do the suspension and some shaving this year and then over winter break it down and do other mods ..it makes it more fun and you get to see ppls reactions on your progress - Suspension work bags , and frame work usually takes about 2 weeks but thats spread out if your not working on it every day/nite . MY truck took 2wks as my fabricator worked a full time job during the day ..I'M sure if you worked on it 10 hrs a day for a week you could get suspension done- But order all your parts FIRST before you start- that way your not stopped due to no parts .. Find out where your local metal supply is you'll be visiting alot .


If your gona do suspension first stay with it - Do that first- it will probably be one the most time consuming things you do - Next to your body work-

If you already have your 350 in the truck - i would assume your truck isn't running as of now- look into a different rear (talk to baggedb22 he's Got a different rear in his truck he's running a mustang 302 i believe in his truck) What ever rear you get chances are you have to shorten it - find someone who works on hot rods and see if they recommend someone who shortens rears .. hot rodders know all the good ppl who do good work other wise no one would use em - GOOD STUFF- .


good luck on your build- wish i had a dad - who wanted to share in the hobby - Actually i did but he wasn't around when i became of age - he was killed- when i was 13 months. any ways- good luck enjoy the hobby .
bagged89mazda   +1y
O YA -


hit up WHYNOTFAB - he'll give ya a killer deal on air ride setup . All our vendors offer discounts to our mbs members!!!




i would do :

(4) 226c 's (Firestone 2600 bags)
(8) 3/8 SMC Valves
50ft of 3/8 air line- (19.99$)
20 ft of 1/4 for your gauages
6 ft if that of switch box wiring
OR You can get a switch box (pre-wired) from Gravity werkx
(1) presure switch rated for 175 psi
(1) 12 Gallon air tank 1/2 port *8 Port tank*
order fittings (and don't be affraid to order extras- For spares! )
(1) PETE& JAKES 4link
(1) VIAIR 450 compressor



Make your own brackets for your bags and notch - Stay away from Aim industries I'm sure i forgot something here but this is the general list you'll need For air management.


i wish i truely thought mine out as well before i went thru and bought AIM INDUSTRIES parts I had to rebuy every thing almost .. INFact i still have the aim bag brackets in my shed . i should just throw them out lol .
nytrdr24   +1y


your probably right, i haven't reasearched what it takes to lay a mazda out w/ 20's, it's probably easier w/ yota arms & spindles, i know that the yota ball joints are more flexable than the mazdas & won't bind, thus part of the reason for the spindles, the other is so you can run a yota hub & lug pattern for better wheel selection than the mazda 6-lug.

good drawing, no need to laugh here. always good to draw it out so you have a general idea of what you want it to look like!
maztang (ryan)   +1y
yeah i forgot fort bragg (one g or two?) is right there. i work for the army now on the helicopters (mostly the apache). never went to afghanistan, i was supposed to go in 2002 but ended up not going. went to iraq in jan. 2003 and don't miss it one bit. too many damn sand storms.

on the 3/8 or 1/2 lines and valves...i said i was going to go with 3/8 but still thinking about 1/2 and just running a lower psi. i have never had bags so i have never been able to play with the setup so this will be a sweet learning experience.

be careful man i don't know how long you have been in the army or how many deployments you have been on but the time goes by pretty fast. Later.

Ryan
scarecrow   +1y
Bagged89Mazda:



thanks man, i've been in for a little over 8 yrs. and this is my 4th rotation i'll start my 5th in nov of next year.


why are all the bagged out guys not using uniballs insted of ball joints? they're weld in, rebuildable, alinement adj, and give you more "flex" with in the range of motion of arms. here's a pic of what i'm talking about?



thax for all the comp's with the drawing and thanks for all the help ya. it seems like this has been the most helpful fourm that i've ever been on..for that thank guys.

josh
nytrdr24   +1y
we try to be helpful around here sorta family like & all.....anyhow be safe while on deployment & keep us posted!
scarecrow   +1y
well guys i think i've made my mind up on the tanks, valves, compressors, ect. with using the specs/diagram found here on the site i figred i could use two "Slim & Skinny" 5 Gal. air tanks from suicidedoors.com and still have enough room for valves, 2 compressors (2 viair 450's or 2 air zeniths), and the axle to cycle up and down without hitting any thing. as far as my rear end set up i'm wanting something simple & inexpensive, and then i pics like this then start wanting it. i know it's clostly & complex but damn that set up is nice. as far as bags....i'm not looking for hopping the truck, just draging from time to time, a 3 wheel turn from time to time, but mostly (about 90% of the time) a daily driver. so the bags have to butter soft when driving it, and i'm not looking to replace the bags cuase they wear out so quickly. so what would ya suggest? i was thinking either slam specialties xs 600 (for the rear) and he 400 (for the front) or the contitech triple stack (for the rear and the 4 ply 300 plus psi 2600 (for the front). i need to advice on this so i can figure up what i will need to spend.

thanks guys
josh
immortal1 (linn)   +1y


Welcome to the scene. Just joined a few weeks ago. Something in common... I am in the process of building an 88 mazda with my 13 year old daughter (pic in the new members area). Can only say, yes you will have your hands full. Her truck is rolling 18's and had no problem layin frame in the back. Front is a little harder. Whichever spindle/arm method you go with, you will still need to cut out the inner fenders (almost to the hood for 20's) and probably a chunk of the firewall right behind the tires. Mazda 2" drop spindles are OK, but they do increase the track width a little. But more importantly your suspension has to go down another 2" before the tires start to camber in (tuck). Depending on your rim selection, this could be an issue. If you are running outboard shocks upfront and drop spindle, do a lot of test fits and check lock to lock on the steering (the tires will probably rub). Will post more pics of the suspension when powdercoating is done. P.S. had great luck with FBI-Mini when ordering air suspension (good service & prompt delivery) AIM on the otherhand.........................................................................

you get the idea.
immortal1 (linn)   +1y
Nice suspension pic. I am running slams and can't say enought about them. Very solid with internal bump stop. No ballooning when inflated - very nice. Air Zenith kicks @$$ ! Running 3 gallon tank with 1 compressor and 1/2" blitzluft valves. Back goes up VERY fast, front ok. Have slowdown valves for going down and highly recommend them.

thread post photo
immortal1 (linn)   +1y
Looks like a Ford Ranger setup (narrow frame) Wont be able to run link bars on the outside of the frame but the idea is cool.