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General Discussion \  Motor for 89 B2200?

Motor for 89 B2200?

General Discussion
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replies 13
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nbailey   +1y
Hi. A few weeks ago I bought an 89 B2200 extra cab plus. It runs great and is in surprisingly great condition with only 89000 miles. The only problem is that it takes entirely too long to accelerate. I need more power for it.

My question is this. What other 4 cylinder or V6 engines would fit without a whole lot of fabricating? I'm not looking for anything big, just a good engine that will give it more power so I don't have to worry about someone ramming my ass when I get on the highway or when I'm lugging someone's stuff in the bed. Good gas mileage would be great too.

Also, it's an automatic transmission. I would prefer to change it out to a manual.
lalunette   +1y


DUH !!

There's your problem right there!!

In my opinion, automatic trannies suck for small block engines.

For example, my 1.5L 5spd 1990 Honda Civic Wagon beats most cars off the line thx to a manual tranny. If it had an automatic I would be the one left in the dust.

Automatic trannies are good if you're running a 3L engine or bigger.

Cheers !!
nbailey   +1y
Yeah, I know. I figured that if I was going to replace the tranny, I had might as well put in a new engine too. I don't care much for automatics anyways, but the price was right for the truck so I went ahead and got it.
hocbj23   +1y
There are swaps here that rangefrom 350Chevys to 302 Fords to the 3.8 liter GM v-6 to 13b rotary MAzdas.It depends on how deep ur pocketbook is and how much time u got.If u just want a little extra oomph from your truck and not spend much money,swap ur stock carb for a 34/34 or 32/36 Weber,get a Pacesetter header,geta good aftermarket ignition system and tune the truck up.The stock rearend in these trucks is a 3.9 which is low enough for getting off the line, and ur stock A/T is the same as those used in early RX-7s so it is more than adequate My 2200 is an automatic and it is totally trouble free and I have no trouble keeping up with traffic.I aint gonna win any drag races however.Lol.BJ
nbailey   +1y
Before I actually signed up, I looked through the forum since I know I'm not the only one to ask that question, but everything I saw was just saying what people put in, not how. So I didn't know how much extra they had to do. I know a 302 would be a real pain since I'd have to change out the rear tires and differential and replace the radiator with something thinner and deeper. My problem is I don't make a lot of money being in the Army, so I can't afford to buy a second car to make this into a project. That's why I only asked what would fit without a lot of extra trouble because I would need to do it in a span of a few days to a week.

Also, I really don't know much about engines. Other than routine maintnance, I really don't know anything. A couple of my friends are the ones that want to do the work (since one of them sold his B2200 while we were in Iraq and is jealous of mine).

As far as just changing carbs, of the two you mentioned, which would you recommend. What are the real differences? And as far as an ignition system, what would you recommend? Like I said, I really don't know a lot, but with the help from my buddies, I'll be able to learn.
nytrdr24   +1y
easy swap would be one of a couple options for direct bolt in, but would require a wiring harness swap.

95-02 kia sportage, mazda fe block (b2000), but dohc 16 v, n/a, @140 hp stock
88-92 mazda 626 / 626 gt, mazda f2 / f2t block, 12v head, na (@110 hp) / turbo (@145 hp)
88-92 mx-6 t, mazda f2t block, 12 v head / turbo, @145 hp

here is a good link to some valuable info on mazda engines & specs

also


these engine blocks have the same bellhousing pattern as the b2k & b2200, so they will bolt to our trannys, but the heads, or at least the 626, 626t, mx-6 t have the dizzy on the wrong end, which would require fire wall modification.....i don't think this is the case with the kia engine though.
best & easiest solution is to use the engine in the truck & to get the intake manifold / turbo setup off one of them along with the wiring harness & put it on your engine, with everything in place you should be able to do one of these swaps in less than a week.

if you don't want to go to the trouble of a engine swap, there are a couple mods that can be done in a weekend or less which should prove to help out the ole powerplant. perf. ignition, weber carb, pacesetter header, fidanza alum. flywheel, elect. fan

as far as an iginition system, accell, mallory, taylor all offer universal ignition upgrades, i have an accel 300+ with super cd coil, here's a link for it
the only downside to a more powerful ignition is that since there is no way to change from points in the dizzy to an optical pickup, with the higher voltage, you will have to change the points more often....

on the carbs they also offer a 38/38 which hocbj32 didn't mention, it all depends on how much you will end up modding your truck as to which one i would choose, but the 34/34 proves to be the mosts adaptable, you still get the power you want as with the 38/38, and still retain the fuel efficiency of the smaller 32/36. note that you can re-jet these carbs if you add on a couple more mods to improve power / efficiency.
the 32/36 is a progressive type (second barrel opens @ half throttle)
the 34/34 is a progressive type
the 38/38 is a syncronous type (both barrels open @ the same time)
here is a link to the place i got mine, the have a bunch of good info on these carbs as well as sell them too.


as far as the header, pacesetter makes two, one coated, one uncoated, it is to your choice which one you want, but i went with the coated one to keep under hood temps down.
here is a link to where i got it


a couple other mods would be to ditch the clutch/belt driven fan for an electric one & a fidanza flywheel, the fan you can get from summit flexalite makes several that will do the job, i have a dual 10" sestup, but could have gone with the dual 12', or a single for that matter. the flywheel is a 9.5 lb aluminum unit with a steel facing, the factory unit is 20-something lbs, so you'd be shedding 10-15lbs off the rotating mass which = more power. i got mine at the same place it got my header., i.p.p.net

hope this info helps you out, if you have any other q's don't hesitate to give us a halla!
nbailey   +1y
What's the difference between DFEV and DGEV?
nytrdr24   +1y
The way the linkage rotates & is situated...

Dfev is a Two Barrel Progressive Carb,Electric Choke Linkage Rotates Clockwise.

Dgev is a Two Barrel Progressive Carb,Electric Choke Linkage Rotates Counter Clockwise.

if i'm not mistaken you can read the letter designation of a weber carb like this.

d=two barrel
f=direction of linkage rotation
g=direction of linkage rotation
e=electric choke
a=water choke
v=variable or progressive barrel opening
s=syncronous or both barrels open at the same time
nbailey   +1y
What would the C be then? The 34/34 is DGEC.
nytrdr24   +1y
not quite sure sir, it may be that it is the same as the v, because both are the last digit/letter in the group & both are progressive type carbs