K
Check engine light
plumbous blimp
+1y
Below is general information if your check engine light won't go out
Some of you may have discovered that your check engine light will come on even though your truck doesn't lose any driveability, and i've found out why. Mazda equipped our trucks with a timer that runs off the odometer, when it reaches multiples of 60,000miles (~95,000km) and 80,000miles (130,000km), a check engine light is preprogrammed to go off, even though your engine is fine. Why they do this is firstly to get you to bring your car in for repair, and also to ensure your O2 sensor is replaced on time.
The 80,000miles light is for the O2 sensor, the 60,000miles light is for the EGR (i think 60K is for the EGR)
You can probably fix these in your drive way with a few cheap parts (i recommend you do, i replaced my O2 and got 15% better fuel mileage). But the check engine light won't automatically got off. You need to reset the check engine timer.
B2200: under the dash, on the driver side near the kick panel, there should be a wire hanging down with a coupler on the end but that isn't connected to anything (wire is green, white or black). You should also see two different coloured wires with the same connector hooked up (the remaining 2 of the green, white or black). Simple disconnect the two wires, then connect the wire that was originally hanging free back into wire with the appropriate connector (male to female). This will reset the timer until the next interval, at which time you will repeat the process with the other hanging wire. (Yes, it is a real pain getting under the dash looking for the wires, but they are there)
B2600: on the back of the gauge cluster, there should be two small holes next to each other, likely marked with a letter or something. one will have a screw in it while the other won't. Simple remove the screw from the one whole and put it into the other. you will have to repeat this when you reach the next timer interval.
Note: do not try to use the method of erasing codes by grounding the green connector near the passenger firewall, or by disconnecting the battery, it won't work.
If the prescribed method above for your model doesn't work, try the method for the other model.
If these methods don't work, you may actually have a real trouble code, and should see a mechanic. If you'd rather fix the problem yourself, PM me and i'll tell you how to check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) and what the DTCs mean.
Some of you may have discovered that your check engine light will come on even though your truck doesn't lose any driveability, and i've found out why. Mazda equipped our trucks with a timer that runs off the odometer, when it reaches multiples of 60,000miles (~95,000km) and 80,000miles (130,000km), a check engine light is preprogrammed to go off, even though your engine is fine. Why they do this is firstly to get you to bring your car in for repair, and also to ensure your O2 sensor is replaced on time.
The 80,000miles light is for the O2 sensor, the 60,000miles light is for the EGR (i think 60K is for the EGR)
You can probably fix these in your drive way with a few cheap parts (i recommend you do, i replaced my O2 and got 15% better fuel mileage). But the check engine light won't automatically got off. You need to reset the check engine timer.
B2200: under the dash, on the driver side near the kick panel, there should be a wire hanging down with a coupler on the end but that isn't connected to anything (wire is green, white or black). You should also see two different coloured wires with the same connector hooked up (the remaining 2 of the green, white or black). Simple disconnect the two wires, then connect the wire that was originally hanging free back into wire with the appropriate connector (male to female). This will reset the timer until the next interval, at which time you will repeat the process with the other hanging wire. (Yes, it is a real pain getting under the dash looking for the wires, but they are there)
B2600: on the back of the gauge cluster, there should be two small holes next to each other, likely marked with a letter or something. one will have a screw in it while the other won't. Simple remove the screw from the one whole and put it into the other. you will have to repeat this when you reach the next timer interval.
Note: do not try to use the method of erasing codes by grounding the green connector near the passenger firewall, or by disconnecting the battery, it won't work.
If the prescribed method above for your model doesn't work, try the method for the other model.
If these methods don't work, you may actually have a real trouble code, and should see a mechanic. If you'd rather fix the problem yourself, PM me and i'll tell you how to check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) and what the DTCs mean.
baggd
+1y
Very usefull info.
elbine69
+1y
If you have a real trouble code, you can ground out the green connected on the passenger side fenderwell, and the check engine light will flash, and depending on how it flashes tells you what the code is right?
plumbous blimp
+1y
you ccan count how many times the check engine light flashes after grounding the green connector, but you will then need to find out what each code the dash flashes means.
blueb
+1y
Dredging this up via search.
Excellent post.
Check engine light went on this morning, exactly as I hit 120,000 miles on the odometer.
Swapped the wires as described above.
Viola! problem solved.
Thanks.
Cusser
+1y
My guess is also an opportunity for dealer to sell not just oxygen sensors, EGR, etc. but also timing belt changes, maybe change the water pump while we're in there, etc. Ever change the gear oil or differential oil - we can do that too. When did you change the coolant? Flush the brake and clutch systems. Oh yeah, we can change the oil too. How about that there nitrogen in your tires - Never mind that the regular air is 78% nitrogen anyway, we can't get that all out when we add nitrogen, and the outside of the tire is exposed to regular air, plus sunshine, etc.
The big dealer money is in:
service
accessory packages
extended warranties
car loans
trade-ins
The big dealer money is in:
service
accessory packages
extended warranties
car loans
trade-ins
blueb
+1y
Don't forget to oil the muffler bearings, and service the egonculator valve!
axel breaker earl
+1y
And how about a few pics of these connections under the drivers side dash? I had these in a similar thread for this over at MazdaTruckin.com before the Hindenburg hit it!
Here you can see the 2 white connectors are plugged into each other, well if you need to reset the check engine light (CEL) just unplug the 2 that are plugged into each other and swap out for the extra connector that is hanging out there also! In my case, I would have to plug one of the white connectors into the black connector that's staring at you right now in this picture!
These connectors are located right above this wire contraption which is right above the driver side kick panel.
You can see the connectors in this pic above the wire contraption!
Here you can see the 2 white connectors are plugged into each other, well if you need to reset the check engine light (CEL) just unplug the 2 that are plugged into each other and swap out for the extra connector that is hanging out there also! In my case, I would have to plug one of the white connectors into the black connector that's staring at you right now in this picture!
These connectors are located right above this wire contraption which is right above the driver side kick panel.
You can see the connectors in this pic above the wire contraption!
mazdizzle
+1y
Thanks for posting pics cusser! I was driving to that car show today and odometer rolled over 200,000 and noticed the light came on. Thought I was going to be stuck taking it to the dealer
wreck
+1y
The check engine light is really a good thing, time to give her a good tune-up. The most important is oil and timeing belt. These are Interference Engines. Witch means if the belt breaks while the engines running the pistons hit the valves and makes for a very expensive repair.