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General Discussion \ Little perturbed with not being hotter....i need more hotterLittle perturbed with not being hotter....i need more hotter
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replies 14
following 4
jrock4224
+1y
So heres the deal.... u all know the bean machine....been working pretty good since i threw the crate motor in there...gettin better mileage no black soot from new carb and motor...but up until our last cold streak did i notice this new issue.....the f ing thing barely gets warm.....at idle it will get off the c in the guage but if i drive to the mail box it cools back down to nothing and any heat(from actual heater...) that i had at idle which is fairly decent ....not the caliber of past mazdas but still defrostable.....as soon as i flow any air across the radiator, boom luke warm heat at best....and the temp guage is buried at c....now granted its washington hitting thiry two is a cold snap but i would like my truck to run a little more heat in the engine and the cab....
i have temp gunned the coolant lines ....max is 160 at the hardline on the power steering side of the motor....the heater core is similar at both lines around 120 to 150 but definately the lower if i drive at all...and i mean as soon as i start moving it will affect the heat in the coolant side of things...
I am running new motor new weber, pacesetter and a flow master but this only came up since i put the new motor in....
this is a first for me having a overly effeicent cooling system.... was suggested it was a bad thermo stat but i just swapped it out and if it wasnt opening, wouldn't i see over heating issues when i temp gun the housing for thermo i can watch it with the temp gun, hot on one side not on the radiator side, i can watch it open up through the changes in temp....Im baffeled but kinda wanna deal with this so anyone seen or had this happen... i am good at diagnosing a over heating issue and dealing with that but aside from that i am just stumped as it appears to be in working order but if i want heat i better not move the truck...
i have temp gunned the coolant lines ....max is 160 at the hardline on the power steering side of the motor....the heater core is similar at both lines around 120 to 150 but definately the lower if i drive at all...and i mean as soon as i start moving it will affect the heat in the coolant side of things...
I am running new motor new weber, pacesetter and a flow master but this only came up since i put the new motor in....
this is a first for me having a overly effeicent cooling system.... was suggested it was a bad thermo stat but i just swapped it out and if it wasnt opening, wouldn't i see over heating issues when i temp gun the housing for thermo i can watch it with the temp gun, hot on one side not on the radiator side, i can watch it open up through the changes in temp....Im baffeled but kinda wanna deal with this so anyone seen or had this happen... i am good at diagnosing a over heating issue and dealing with that but aside from that i am just stumped as it appears to be in working order but if i want heat i better not move the truck...
Cusser
+1y
Is your thermostat 195F or 192F ? I improved my heat a lot in 2010 by switching from 180F thermostat up to 195F. And no summer running hot either, in Arizona.
Prior to that I had blocked off half the radiator with a piece of cardboard in the winter.
Prior to that I had blocked off half the radiator with a piece of cardboard in the winter.
jrock4224
+1y
yeah i got the murray 195 thermostat that i just went to three weeks ago to try and resolcve this issue i am baffled...
seconmd question my older brother is sitting here and was wondering how u get the ignotion tumbler off the column...not the cap that u can use a screw driver for but the other half thats part of the cast basket that is attached withthose one time use bolts...i remeber changing mine but i cant remeber if i drilled those out or used a set o channle locks
the heating issue is baffling to me ... im mean if it was air ...id over heat ... if its blocked i would over heat.....im about to pull the fan and see if i can build any heat concsitantly
seconmd question my older brother is sitting here and was wondering how u get the ignotion tumbler off the column...not the cap that u can use a screw driver for but the other half thats part of the cast basket that is attached withthose one time use bolts...i remeber changing mine but i cant remeber if i drilled those out or used a set o channle locks
the heating issue is baffling to me ... im mean if it was air ...id over heat ... if its blocked i would over heat.....im about to pull the fan and see if i can build any heat concsitantly
Cusser
+1y
Another thing to investigate is whether your underdash flaps/doors are working to prevent outside cold air from mixing with your heated air. Since the outside vented air quantity increases with truck speed, that can make the air that comes from the vents feel colder with increasing vehicle speed.
My '88 has consistently put out very good heat (except when I had a 180F thermostat in it) even with my 2-row radiator. But remember, I'm in Arizona, so I rarely see colder than 40F here. But mine warms up and produces heat within 2 miles of driving.
My '88 has consistently put out very good heat (except when I had a 180F thermostat in it) even with my 2-row radiator. But remember, I'm in Arizona, so I rarely see colder than 40F here. But mine warms up and produces heat within 2 miles of driving.
jrock4224
+1y
pretty sure my vents work... but i will check ... i can watch the temp go down physically on the guage
Cusser
+1y
Is your fan clutch working properly? It should be a thermal fan clutch, heat activated, have more resistance at higher temperatures. When it's cold it shouldn't spin the fan so much.
see
"Thermal Fan Clutch
Varies the fan speed with temperature of the air behind the radiator.
Engaged (high speed) operation provides maximum cooling.
Disengaged (low speed) operation provides fuel savings and noise reduction.
Greater life expectancy than a non-thermal clutch.
Briefly engaged at cold start-up.
Engages at about 170
Is your fan clutch working properly? It should be a thermal fan clutch, heat activated, have more resistance at higher temperatures. When it's cold it shouldn't spin the fan so much.
see
"Thermal Fan Clutch
Varies the fan speed with temperature of the air behind the radiator.
Engaged (high speed) operation provides maximum cooling.
Disengaged (low speed) operation provides fuel savings and noise reduction.
Greater life expectancy than a non-thermal clutch.
Briefly engaged at cold start-up.
Engages at about 170
emjay
+1y
If your area is too cold, you can always put a piece of cardboard in front of half the radiator. Done that before in Pittsburgh when the truck was less than a year old.
axel breaker earl
+1y
Looks like you have a 1987 truck so you should have the good flap door on the blower motor housing. This is the flap door that lets you either have "outside air" coming into the system or "recirculated air" depending on where you have your selector knob positioned.
The earlier trucks have a flap that is vinyl covered foam over a steel plate, whereas the later trucks (probably 1989 and up) just have a foam covered steel plate for that flap. As the foam on that flap ages, it starts to disintegrate and will no longer seal the incoming air from the cowl when you have it positioned to recirculate the cabin air.
To see what I mean, here are some comparison pics!
These are 2 blower motor housings, the one on the left is a later model unit and the right is a unit that I installed the earlier year flap into........this is from my 1989 truck and it used to have that foam only door in it.
Right now the flaps is in the "outside air" position.
This thing ain't gonna seal nothing!
Here they are in the "recirculated air" position and the blower motor will draw air from inside the cabin in this position........the flap is supposed to close off the incoming air from the cowl area in this position.
The earlier style door seals up good!
Not so much on the "foam only" door when all the foam disintegrates and you just have a steel plate!
A pic of the top of the blower motor housing showing how it is a straight shot for the outside air that is pulled in from the cowl area when the flap door is set at "outside air".
A pic from the side when that door is set at "recirculated air".
If your wanting the most heat in the cabin, you definitely want to have this set on "recirculated air" and not outside air.
The earlier trucks have a flap that is vinyl covered foam over a steel plate, whereas the later trucks (probably 1989 and up) just have a foam covered steel plate for that flap. As the foam on that flap ages, it starts to disintegrate and will no longer seal the incoming air from the cowl when you have it positioned to recirculate the cabin air.
To see what I mean, here are some comparison pics!
These are 2 blower motor housings, the one on the left is a later model unit and the right is a unit that I installed the earlier year flap into........this is from my 1989 truck and it used to have that foam only door in it.
Right now the flaps is in the "outside air" position.
This thing ain't gonna seal nothing!
Here they are in the "recirculated air" position and the blower motor will draw air from inside the cabin in this position........the flap is supposed to close off the incoming air from the cowl area in this position.
The earlier style door seals up good!
Not so much on the "foam only" door when all the foam disintegrates and you just have a steel plate!
A pic of the top of the blower motor housing showing how it is a straight shot for the outside air that is pulled in from the cowl area when the flap door is set at "outside air".
A pic from the side when that door is set at "recirculated air".
If your wanting the most heat in the cabin, you definitely want to have this set on "recirculated air" and not outside air.
jrock4224
+1y
it spins one speed and no matter the temp i can stop it with my hand.....to be honest i dont think i have ever heard it engage on mine or fingerlickins truck.... although his gets warmer and stays warmer while driving....i had a similar issue in my 72 blazer fixed aluminum fan with a ....3 row big block rad... would never build much heat swapped to a two row aluminum radiator and boom hold tempature......i am wondering if when i swapped rad. ten years ago if theres a way i got a larger radiator...is there even more than one availble? seems i never had this issue in my last motor but it was a tired junk yard motor... i am stumped i am planning on switching to a electric fan jy conversion( next month..) but am afraid it will never turn on...
jrock4224
+1y
i know for a fact i have that dilapitated one on the left that shits gets everywhere when u touch it....i want the one on the right please.....send to me or i will freeze to death... nah its not that cold up here.... this sounds logical but wouldnt i feel the draft when i run no fan... i prefer fresh and mostly run it that way....i have in all my mazdas...wait let me go look right now... yeah no still on fresh....hmmm wierd i know i see it in my guage but thats a hole nother story i have a wierd temp sending unit in it since the crate motor place drilled and tapped it to a wierd pipe thread that wouldnt accpet any mazda temp sending units...
to be honest the motor i bought for 1800 has been a lot of head aches from the timing belt being way to tight ... and killing a idler to the cam seal backing out mutliple times.....causing a near fatal oil leak...to the temp sending unit issue that started all my doubt...if this motor craps out i am buying the first miata i see and swapping it in
to be honest the motor i bought for 1800 has been a lot of head aches from the timing belt being way to tight ... and killing a idler to the cam seal backing out mutliple times.....causing a near fatal oil leak...to the temp sending unit issue that started all my doubt...if this motor craps out i am buying the first miata i see and swapping it in