NEED HELP ? ADVICE ? GRENADE ?

Plastigauge gives you one reading where it is used. It won't tell you if you have an egg-shaped or out-of-round condition. You probably should have had the machinist who did the polishing check the crank with a set of calipers prior to doing anything else to the crank to verify specification integrity.

Your indication that the oil pressure drops and that you only hear noise after the engine warms up indicates that the mains are opening up when the engine reaches operating temperature, taking them out of spec and letting the oil pressure drop. The added heat swells the mains away from the crank. They might have been in spec cold at .003 and once they heat up they go to .00325, or maybe more. It doesn't take much to take out the bottom end.

The rod noise is only going to get worse.

Since you are asking for advice i will give mine. Cut your losses and find a Kia FE-3 motor and do the swapover. The gas mileage savings will pay for the swap and you will be getting state of the art technology.

My .02.

Yes the crank was sent to a reputable machine shop I would assume they checked for roundness. This is a machine shop that has forty machinist working full time not a little shade tree shop. Looks like I am going to pull engine and go through it again and see what I find. Just real disheartening !

Is there any chance that the bearings weren't torqued to spec?

I had a broken click type torque wrench that I din't know was broken and it gave me false readings.

I don't think so I was worried about my click type so I borrowed a needle type and double checked my torques on mains and rods.

Ok just pulled engine and dropped oil pan. Rod bearings and crank are smoked . Just got to figure out why it quit oiling now.

What did you torque the main caps to? Did you do it in three steps? What about the rods?

Someone suggested that the thrust washer wasn't installed properly.

Engine oiling goes from pump through filter and then through mains and then to everything else.

Maybe one of the mains got missed when you torqued everything up or it got crooked and gave you a misreading when you tightened it.

Torqued bolts in three steps and used torque values in Chilton manual. Going to tear it down tomorrow and see what I find. I'm guessing spun main and blocked galley, or ??

What I'm guessing at this point is that you didn't pre-oil the engine. The repair manuals don't discuss this.

What you need to do is either pack the oil pump with assembly grease (white lube) prior to installation or pull the spark plugs and crank the engine around until the oil light goes off, prior to the first start. It's hard for the oil pump to suck oil up from the sump when it's new and dry. And if that is the case, that would explain dry bearings failing shortly after run in. All the frictional loading would have occurred within the first 2 minutes while the oil light was still on during that first start.

Everything was layered in clevite assembly lube and oil pump was primed with oil before startup .Engine ran flawlessly for 760 miles with no noise or oil light coming on at all.

Assembly grease isn't "priming with engine oil." Oil would have run out. What I am referring to is the first start, not what showed up 700 miles later.

I'm speaking from experience.