threads
Page 1 of 3
Mazda Engine General \  Serious V8 questions

Serious V8 questions

Mazda Engine General Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
views 3870
replies 25
following 6
 
valiant   +1y
ok, I know questions have been asked, but I am kind of irritated at my truck at dont really want to look. I just replaced the head gasket and pulled the motor and replaced all the gaskets on the lower end, bassicly a rebuild except for pulling the pistons out and replacing the main bearings and the rings. got it all back together and turns out the head cracked from the exhuast and cooling, so its pushing the compression into the cooling line. Went to wash it and it over heated. Dang thing just wants to sit around my house more.

My uncle has a carb. 302 and I am thinking of asking him if I can have it to put into my truck. what I really would like to know is, you guys that have done it, how much do you have into it, do you run an auto or a 5speed, will a 5 speed work, and was it worth it?

I plan on baggin and body droppin it, and I dont really care if the motor sticks out the hood, i like the hot rod look.

here is a list of what I "think" I need, please correct me or add, thanks

motor and trans
radiator
electric fans
custom driveshaft
rear end(better change it now then later)
Mustang motor mounts
shorty headers
custom exhuast
its a carbed motor, so I dont think I need that much wiring

so what do you guys think???
thanks,
Mike
slammed91b5000   +1y
well ive got a carbed 302 in mine, and its bagged and bodydropped. yes a 5 sp will work, i did it in mine, but it takes alot of work making linkage and pulleys and shit because the clutch is cable actuated, and mazdas are hydro. so i would say go auto. i just hate driving autos so i did mine with a 5 spd. yah you need the 302 rad. i got an aftermarket aluminum racing rad it cools way better. you will have to get reversed electric fans and put them in the front of the rad insted of behind cuz there is no space. and since pushing air thru doesnt cool as well as pulling it thru, i would get an aluminum rad to help. as far as motor mounts and tranny mounts go i would modify your stock ones insted of modifying mustang mounts. i just used my factory b2200 mounts and flipped them over and cut them off and welded a piece of flat bar on them and then bolted that to the motor. look at my album pictures in the user gallery for closeups. wiring is pretty simple just make sure you conect all the ford ignition module voltage regulator and coil wires right. when first installing the motor, have it on an engine hoist and lower it in so that the oil pan still clears the crossmember then fabricate motor mounts to go from the mazda one to where the 302 has holes in the block. then you know when your done the motor will sit where you want it and wont hit anything. i ripped my b2200 out and had the 302 in and running within 2 days. the only shitty thing is you gotta get it towed to a shop to get a driveshaft made. and you also have to bash out the tranny tunnel where it meets the firewall with a big hammer so you can get clearance for the bell housing. if you dont do this and just make motor mounts the engine will be sticking out forward too much. i bashed the hell out of the firewall and i only have MAYBE 1/2" between the front pulley and the rad. thats all i can think of now but if you have any other questions check my pictures in the user gallery or PM me.
valiant   +1y
I dont like driving automatics also. Dont a lot a people use the mustang motor mounts and then just make em fit? Bashing out room for the bellhousing, is it just at the fire wall or the hole tunnel? would it just be better to cut and reweld it back on higher? what kind of oil pan are you using, a truck one or a mustang one?
I am not that fimiliar with ford V8's but my father is, so I cant tell from the pictures.
I forgot about tranny mounts, I would have to make a new crossmember for those, wouldnt I?
I am kind of wondering now if would just be easier to get a used head and throw it on for right now while I rebuild the V8.

thanks for all the help. if you have anything else to add, please do.
-Mike
baggedb22   +1y
It's really not very hard if u no how to fabricate, I have a 351w and a c6 auto tranny in mine, As for a tranny if your gonna keep the stock rear i'd go with a 5spd or an over drive tranny. The mazda rear will take a decent beating but i did blow mine in pieces=) Right now im redoing my 4 link and installing a 98 mustang 8.8 disc brake rear with 3.27's and lsd.

Heres a pick of my motor so u can get an idea...
thread post photo

beating the tranny tunnel you will only have to do that on the front part of the tranny tunnel where the bell housing will be. You could cut an reweld it higher i just wanted to get mine in and running=) My hole motor is out a truck it had the truck motor mounts and the truck rear spump oil pan. My motor is about 1/2" off the ground when laided out and im still not under a stock hood. lol... like b5000 said i have about a 1/2" between my motor and rad, im running a aluminum nissan 240sx rad and 2 electric fans behind the grill. I built my tranny mount right off the stock mazda tranny mount just had to move it back alittle. You'll be very happy with the end results
1hotdawg   +1y
Dumb question I know, but these days lol, ... what kind of gas mileag you fellas with v8's getting? I would so love to do a swap myself, but with today's gas...I just don't know....and knowing things are only going to get worse fuel cost wise. But man, I hate slow!
baggedb22   +1y
lol right now im not sure thats why u get a daily driver man! Mines torn apart right now so i wouldn't be able to tell u what u get gas millage wise its got a 2bbl on it right now so its not bad but as soon as i get a daily its getting the 4bbl back on it. lol
valiant   +1y
I have an 83 vw cabriolet to drive, so I can take a little time with mine, plus I get about 30+ mpg.
Did you just move the stock crossmember back or did you add something to the crossmember?
I am planning on running 2 hoods, one open with a street scoop with the butterfly flaps on it and one with an enclosed scoop for when it is raining and in winter.
I was planning to pick up a 9" ford rear and shorten it, I was thinking if I have to have one driveshaft made, might as well do it once.

hey, do you run a heater on yours or did you cap off the heater core. I am wondering if the mazda heater core can take the heat.

thanks for the help guys
-Mike

::EDIT:: I know your probably busy and stuff, but when you get a chance, could you take a pic of the tranny crossmember for me? I would really appreciate it. thanks
1hotdawg   +1y
Hehe I know I need something easier on gas Looking for a $500 Honda or something
slammed91b5000   +1y
your factory heater should work fine. the water temp depends on what temperature thermostat you have in most engines are around 150-170 be it a 4 cyl, v8, or v10.
valiant   +1y
ahh ok, thats good to hear.



you should pick up an old vw rabbit or golf or jetta, same good gas miliage, easy to work on, and easy on insurance. My insuarance dropped tons from switchin to my rabbit conv. from my nissan pathfinder. you can pick up a good golf for around 500. I payed 350 for my conv. my dad payed 250 for his, but it needs some work. You can pick up tons of performance parts for them aswell. sorry to get off the truck, but I like my rabbit too. if you want to see what some people do with these cars check out go to forums.