Dually's out the back?

What, why would I need a body drop? I'm confused! whats the difference of laying the frame or to the rockers? Why would I have to notch? This guy has a pipe bender, but he does'nt know anything about bags, so he would'nt know to work around it. Guess, I would just have to wait until I get the bags in...

I have 3" blocks on and the torsions cranked down. Not sure how much though. No leafs were taken out. I thought the bags took the place of your suspension, so that means you take out the shocks, for the front, and the shocks in the back, and the blocks, leafs, right? Which is why it would need the link kit. Which brings me to ask this:

What kit would lower it the most, but also lift it alot? I want it to be really adjustable!

Alright, so if its a bad thing to have the dually's, bagged, then whats the optimal for the exhaust? Just cut the line right after the muffler?

nothing bad about having duals...i actually like them, but wanting to bag your truck you run into a bunch of restraints (stuff in the way, i.e. ? about spare tire carrier) to being able to have them, so most people just don't run duals....if there isn't any room to run the duals after you install your bag / suspension setup, you could always have the pipe (s) turned out in front of the rear wheels, or under the front of the bed..sorta like the ford f-150's did a few years ago.

I want to keep the stock exhaust all the way to the muffler... So really, I could just get it cut and I would be done!

But eventually when it starts to wear down, I'll get it redone with the good stuff!

If the frame is the first thing to hit the ground when lowered, I think thats all I need to prove!

Is it possible to put your bags between one leaf and the axle?

yeah, you could mount the bag on top of the axle inbetween it & the frame rail, or make a new cross member & put it above the axle then mount the bags to the axle & that cross member. i don't know if i would mount one directly to the leaf springs then to the frame, you wouldn't get as much lift, or could bend the leaf.....

one suggestion on the exhaust...at the first chance i'd get rid of both cats & replace them with one just in front of the muffler.....both of mine stopped up which was the end of my motor

Well if you look at the pictures on this site, you'll see that they still have the leafs. But now that I think of it, they probably just have the bags for weight support.



Thats where I got the idea. But, it won't work. So what link system will get me the most lift?

My cat converters still have more miles to go. Once they go though, it'll get replaced. The pacesetter headers sure do cost a pretty penny. But I suppose I'll have to do it one day.

I would so pissed if it ceased my motor! JUST rebuilt!

the bag setups off that link are for "load leveling / weight support" i.e. if you remove springs to lower your truck you can't place a load of the same weight in it as if you still had all of the leafs, so you install one of those kits to take place of the remove leafs. since i have the belltech lowered leaf spring packs i am going to try to run something like that so i can still haul a load in the rear of my truck w/o worrying about breaking a spring. these setups mount to the side of the frame & bolt a bracket to the side of the leaf spring pack. i may get one of these kits & modify it to fit directly under the frame & above the axle where the bumpstop sits. if your just looking to have a setup for weight support / load leveling the setup on the link will work on your truck, it will probably give you 3"-5" of lift max in the rear depending on if its a 900# kit or a 1200# kit., but if your looking to have an actual bag suspension checkout this link

if your going to run one of the load leveling bag setups in the rear, you could remove some of the leafs & get rid of the lowering blocks, install one of these load leveling bag setups & still run duals out he back w/o any problems. when i had mine run back in the day, i had 2" blocks with almost all of the leafs removed & had @ 1 1/2" between the top of the axle & the bottom of the frame...it equaled out to be about the same as having a 4" block in the rear & had the duals run out the holes for the bumper brackets.

as far as the cats & the pacesetter header, check out this site this is where i got my armorcoated one, it was like $235 or something shipped. i would get rid of the factory exhaust manifold & cats, put on a pacesetter header, get an aftermarket hi-flow cat (i got a 2" one from pacesetter) & a free flowing muffler (magnaflow, flowmaster, etc.) i myself would prefer to not run a cat, but do so that at least it looks legal with a cat still in your exhaust. if one of the factory cats stops up, it won't be long before you'll have engine issues.

That bagginit site is AWESOME!

I suppose I'll completely redo the exhaust from the header to the tip. But I don't have any cash flow to do much! My exhaust works quit well right now and has just surface rust.

I think I'm going to need invest in an expensive cat when I redo it though, because of emissions.

the pacesetter cat i got was $90, i think i got it