Nothing but problems lol

So yea.. as most of you probly have read, ive eben having mad trouble with my truck.. First the water pump went.. Then the starter. Then i started havin trouble with my carb.. So i got a new one.. THENN i finally got that fixed,, and 8 hours later my transmissoin went.. (when i bought the truck there wasnt a drop of oil in the transmission. Didnt realize it until i dropped it, and there wasnt anything in it lol.)

Well i just put my tranny in yesterday.. fired it up, and heard the worst noise ive ever heard.. Sounded like metal on metal.. like a grinding.. but not so much a grinding.. More like a bearing spinning..

So at work last night.... it dawned on me.. When i was jacking the truck up,, i was jacking it by the crossmember, And the jack slipped off and fell on the oil pan.. dented it in a good amount.. So ithought maybe somethin was rubbing on the pan,.. i dono..

So i dropped the crossmember adn pulled the pan off this morning. When i drained the oil.. I noticed it looked reallly metallic... NOT GOOD...

Checked all the rods.. And tehy all had side to side movement along the crankshaft.. But not back and forth or upand down.. So it seemed ok..

I hammered out the oil pan, And put it back on.. Threw oil back in it. And started it back up.. The noise was MUCH quieter.. But it still has a slight knock. Not even 1 10th as loud as it was before..

What i think happened.. was i think the pan bent in such a way as to block the oil pickup tube from gettin enough oil to lubricate the engine.. And something wore down from metal to metal contact.. I just dont knwo what it is..

I called a friend of mine whos like a mazda expert. Said hes had the same thing happen to him, And really the only way to figure out what exactly is wrong with it, without rebuilding the whole motor, is just to dirve it and wait for it to blow up.


SO nowww i think what im going to do is build a new engine for it. I had plans to put a ford 302 in it. But i dont know if im going to do it or not.. Im thinking about just getting a 2200 motor for it. And rebuilding the entire thing.. Pistons, rings, gaskets, bearings.. rods everything..And ill try to drive the truck as is until somethin blows.. it obviously isnt going to be going on any long distance trips any time soon lol. but i think, around town, and to and from work, it should be ok..

My buddy whos the mazda expert said he drove one with a pretty good knock for like a month, until a rod blew thru the side of the block lol

I just cant believe how much shit has gone worng with this truck.

I have had it since febuary.. so far heres the list of shit ive done

water pump
starter
plugs, wires
carb
fenders
bed
passenger door
some interior work
rewired the hydros
redid the switchbox
clutch
trnsmission
Now an engine

And its still nowheres near close to being close to being done lol.

Hopefully it will work for now to get me to and from work, Because my daily driver has been my bmx for awhile.. lol

At some point u will need to put pencil to paper and decide based on facts how much more $ u r willing to put into a truck that sounds worn out.U can probably part it out, make some $ and find one in better shape.Just a thought.BJ

lol welcome to being a mazda owner. Every time I fixed something on mine something else would break. So I just stopped fixing sh#t

i guess it doesnt help that the guy who built the truck had absolutely no idea what he was doing.. When i pulled off the oil pan there was no gasket at all lol.. Just some RTV sealant... So that goes to show you how well he did things... he said he rebuilt the engine when i got it.. So yea.. thats probly why its blown now lol.. Im gonna look for a reman engine or something.. That way ill know its all good.

okay heres the deal, a mazda is an awsome vehicle by design with a few exceptions. in the mid eighties efi came out, mazda used an electronic carb design on most models which depended on a lot of vacuum switches and solenoids, and electric choke etc. My full Mazda count includes 3 83 GLC sports, and 3 b2200s after 220000kms on average it is necessary to redo the carb set up totally! Buy the weber kit and simplify the whole thing, as far as complete rebuilds go cam bearings are usually still within spec but over boring new pistons and rings are a good idea.
Proper port and polish requires experience to get right,
Facing facts these were never a serious performance engine.
Lifes great when U drive a V8, (with the exception of fuel prices.
every experienced mechanic I talk to remembers these carbs as the biggest pain in the U know what, and refuse to work on them.
Plugs and wires are regular maintenance.
I bought my newest truck w a new rebuild, I have the recipt $2000.00 CDN
My advice find a block, and build from square 0.
Simply put they were programmed to fail after so long.

yea. well supposedly this was rebuilt. with abou 6,000 miles on it.. so yea.. i doubt it was built right when he rebuilt it. Because judging from my previous experience in automotive mecahics, Engines dont blow after 6,000 miles unless somethins seirously wrong..

The oil in the bottom of the pan was silver lol.. Looked like silver paint.. It was VERY metallic. so somethin definitely blew in the motor..

Reman motors seem to be expensive.. But i think it might be the best option for now

I was gonna put a ford 302 in it... my buddy was gonna sell me the motor carb to pan, with the t5 tranny for $200, But i guess he just got rid of it like 2 days ago.

if you have 1000s int paint and budy
and 1000s into suspension,
whats 2 k on a new rebuild?

oh, does anyone have good running efi b22?

C 5?.
The rodding shop I worked in we used the C6 a lot
302, gret motor , cheap and readily available parts

well as far as paint, i probly got $30 in rattle cans from autozone lol.. Its all primer, But the truck is juiced, suicide doors, bodydropped, shaved, custom interior.. the works.. Im thinking about an rx7 swap. i signed up on an rx7 site and theres a few people on there who have done it, and say its actually prety simple.. Ill probly end up doing a NA 13b and swithc it over to a carb to keep it simple.