i think my computer is bad

thanks, i dont see any problems with it from what i could see. and im not having any of the issues they list, just no self diagnosis when grounding the test connector.

its made a few couple hour trips and doesnt run any differant when it gets hot or anything, its just on hot restarts. damnest thing.

That sounds like it is vaporizing the fuel in the tb.Is it running hot or has a fuel line worked loose and is getting too close to block?BJ

well, i dont think its running hot, the gauge gets close to half way, never above that. and all the fuel lines are in the stock locations i think. my fuel never enters the throttle body though, its MPFI, i was told the injectors could be leaking when i cut the truck off and all the fuel pressure is filling a cylinder, but it doesnt smoke when it happens or anything.

keep the ideas coming. im gonna go look at all the fuel lines.

oh, by the way, could it have something to do with the tank being moved and the charcoal canister not there??? im not sure what all was removed before i got the truck.

The cannister served as a vent for the fuel tank vapors.The return line goes into the carb on a 2200,not real sure on a 2600i but back into the fuel stsyem somewhere.Manual says hard starting when hot may be caused by vapor lock caused by a blocked tank vent line.If ur cannister is gone and tank is not vented,that could be the problem.I will trace my 2600 tomorrow and see where the retrn goes.The lack of a tank vent could I suppose increase the fuel pressure enogh that an injector could leak down into the cylinder.I am about running out of worthwhile ideas here.Lol.Good luck.

all fuel lines are intact and in the correct place, after racking my brain about it, im gonna say its the coolant temp sensor.

see, once its warm it requires WAY less fuel to crank the truck, less fuel puddling, better atomizing of the air/fuel, etc.

so if my CTS is still giving a cold reading to the ecu on hot starts it is loading it up with fuel.

lets say i crank it hot and it runs real rough, and i shut it right back off, crank it back it will do the same again, run rough, now i take it for a drive, shut it off, crank it right back, it will run rough still.

only after it is FULLY cold again will it be fine. also, if i only make a short trip and it doesnt get FULLY warm it doesnt have the problem, its only after a certain temperature. so i guess the CTS (if its the problem) is working in a certain range, just not the full range.

im gonna cross referance some part numbers to see what i can nab one off of at the U pull IT tomorrow, i will update afterwards.

Sounds like a plan.Let us know if that works and we will all have learned something.Lol.BJ

well, made it to the junkyard, but they didnt have what i needed, and it seems like the hotter it gets outside the worse the problem.

i also checked something out today, once the engine gets completely hot, like after a drive from work 25 miles. i can cut it off and immediately restart and it will do it IMMEDIATELY, so the injectors dont have time to leak down or anything as quick as i was doing it. did it about 6 times in a row and it did it every time.

im gonna clean the iacv (or whatever mazda calls it) tomorrow. just to make sure thats not it.