Performance cam on ebay

any of the "performance cams" for our trucks are re-grinds....oem cam that someone has ground to a different duration & lift.....factory is 250 deg duration, .239 lift, & 25 degrees of overlap.....so with a 272 deg duration & .414 of lift, you are opening & closing the valves a lot faster, but the length of time they stay open is longer....you will notice an increase in power & torque, but it will be from say @ 2500 rpm to 5500 rpm. i have a computer dyno program & did a dyno for a stock motor with a 262 / .420 lift cam & it upped the power to the 120 hp range w/o a carb up grade or exhaust. so with a 272 / .414 & and exhaust, you ought to see that or slightly better. are you still running the factory carb? if so i would suggest getting a weber first then the cam as you are going to starve the engine with a factory carb trying to run a cam.

if you are going to do or consider a cam swap, my suggestion would be pull your cam & have it custom ground, then send it to be cryo treated. the reason i suggest this is the cam in your engine has run in your engine for however many miles you have on it & is less likely to have a defect than on took from a doaner engine that who knows what shape it was in.....it would also be wise to replace your valve springs & retainers. your truck being an 87 ought to have the manual rocker arms which is good, because if you do wind the engine up past 5 grand, the hyd lifters tend to have problems & start sticking.....

I installed this cam on my 93 B2200 regular cab.

Webber 32/36
CAM (with new head, springs and lifters)
Pacesetters
MSD 6al
Blaster Coil
2.25" piping (no CAT)
40 series flowmaster
Center Force Clutch

Works well. Motor has a little kick to it now. If your looking to get crazy power with the CAM don't waste your money. Wait for the motor swap.

dont u need longer valves to run the regrind cam?

no, the increased lift will make the valves potrude farther into the cylinder, thus you need to be careful once you install the cam, that they don't come in contact with the piston.....

that doesn't make sense tho... they don't add to the cam lobe, to make the lobe taller to increase lift.

too many hours @ work my brain isn't running exactly on all cylinders haha! pardon me....here is something from
that should make it somewhat clearer

"The measurement that indicates the amount, in inches, that the cam opens a valve is the lift. There are two types of lift - cam lift and valve lift. Cam lift is the distance the lifter is raised by the cam lobe. Valve lift is the amount of valve spring compression (how much the valve opens) due on the mechanical advantage of the rocker arm. (OHC engines that do not use cam followers or rocker arms measure valve lift directly by cam lift. In these engines, cam lift and valve lift are identical.)"

by changing the profile of the cam lobes, they can change the distance the valve opens, and also the amount of time it stays open.

i do know this much, you should run larger springs (by larger, doesn't necessarly mean taller, you can use a spring with a higher constant than factory) when running a higher lift cam, this will prevent spring binding @ higher rpms which can cause your springs to break & lead to other problems as well