Weber Install

Okay. Now its making a little more sense! I would suggest calling Weber Redline for some more official help on this topic! To me, it sounds like its the carb!

Consider doing this:
1. If you have'nt tried to run the truck with the choke engaged, try to do so. Make sure the fast speed screw is on the fast-idle cam. Screw the screw in a bit so when it cranks you atleast get some higher RPM on it.

2. If it still dies, disconnect your choke and get your butterflies to stay open. Have someone to try and start the truck with you over the carb. Make sure the fast speed screw is not on the fast-idle cam! If it starts, and dies its either becuase your truck is not warmed up enough, or it will bring you into:

3. What I'd like you to see is if your throttle linkage is fully returned with and without the cable attached. Disconnect the cable and use your hand as the accelerator. What may be happening is that it (it looks like you have a 38?) your throttle plates are not set right. The plate should only be <i>slightly</i> open for air. Below that there is the a hole below it for the idle.

In this case I think the only way to see the bottom of it is to remove the carb and look on the bottom of it. Look under it, watch how the plates move and what clearance you have.

What I'm trying to get to is that I THINK IMHO is that you either have bad idle jets, bad throttle plate clearance and you might have a bad mix screw! Make sure you have not seated the mix screw in further than <i>lightly</i>! The spring will be destroyed!

Sometimes I've had to disconnect the choke and warm up the truck myself manually. I disconnected the choke, started it up and controlled the throttle carefully to keep it alive. Hold the clutch in so it does'nt have any load, and hold the throttle to keep it alive. If it starts dying as you give it gas, let off a bit so the mix evens out. Its a light process to try and works vice versa if it dies when you don't have any throttle on it. You have to balance it out basically.

Well, its all I can think of right now, and I wish I could help more! I would strongly consider trying those and then post back up on here and let me know how it goes!

If it does'nt work, let me know, give me the info. about your carb. and I'll give my import store a call about it and ask this guy who is basically a Weber expert!

HeX0rx

Your replies are greatly appreciated. I've tried all of what you said short of taking off the carb again and checking clearance. I recall that it stays open just a sliver. I had placed a one-way fuel valve close to the carb and it ran for 30 seconds at a time. I removed the check valve and went straight fuel line......it starts and stops within 5 seconds. I'm thinking there is NOT a constant flow of fuel to the carb.

I called weber today and they said they can only help with tuning. WTF??



Sounds good to me.......I called around today and didn't find anyone yet......its a 38 DGES put on a mitsu 2555cc 2.6L reman engine. No other perf upgrades yet. Call if you like.....(403) 295-9077.

Dave

What state was your truck in to begin with?
Was it running before the swap on stock carb?

If it runs for 30 seconds at a time, it is fuel starvation.
Looks like the gas tank filter or fuel line has blockage.

Truck was getting "tired" when I bought it. Needed new engine, carb, clutch and gas tank. I pulled old engine, bought new crate engine, clutch kit, gas tank, fuel pump, fuel filter and weber carb. Put it all together and this is whats happening. The old tank and fuel filter was contaminated with rust particles....perhaps some got into the lines?

Im going to borrow a pressure tester and check the system today. As well as call a few more shops to get a better idea. Sure does sound like starvation.....

Thx guys.

Well! I have overlooked ONE thing! I did'nt realize you could adjust the float on these carbs! I did'nt think you could touch them!

I called up my Weber tech. today and he highlighted this. If you have done everything correctly, then the only thing left is that your float is not working properly!

I would suggest that if you have damaged your mix screw by seating it in too hard that you will run into big problems! But if you did not, then you are left with only your float!

He said that I can stop by tomorrow and pick up a guide sheet about the floats on our Weber carbs. I'm off tomorrow, so either I might be able to scan it up for you, or do it on my truck and post it up, or I could mail the guide to you!

Regardless, if you know how to do the float, I would suggest you start there and disregard everything else! He said that either your float has sunk, or it is flooding the bowl.

Its fairly easy to take these carbs apart and it would probably take you less than 30 min. to check!

Thx HeX.....Did that a few hours ago.....FLOAT BOWL is not filling up. I can take the top off, fill the float reservoir with gas and it runs fine. I Step on gas and it kinda chokes but still runs until the float res is empty. I got another fuel pump today.....it made no difference. I can prime the system by turning key off and on a dozen times, which sprays a very little bit of fuel into the res. there isnt really ANY fuel pressure. How much should there be? Should there be constant pressure when engine is running? I watched the fuel line when it was disconnected and only a bit came out when I initially turned the key. Followed the main line from tank to the carb....no leaks present. will a pressure regulator do any good? give me fuel pressure?

also, I can blow thru the line in and push up on the float so it stops the air.

Im gonna burn the truck down if this keeps up.

Well if I were you, I will take the bed off, label the fuel lines, and take them all off.
I will also disconnect the supplu and return lines at the carb.
Then you can blow thru the lines easily from the tank end or from the carb end.

Hook up the fuel lines at the tank end and run the fuel pump and check the fuel output in gallons per minute and compare to spec.

If it does not come up to spec, pull the fuel pump (is it in-tank or out of tank?) and check the suction filter for blockage.

THANKS for all your help guys - but you can't help an IDIOT.

I fogot ONE, thats right one wire to hookup to the coil. The pump now runs continuously and throws good pressure. Now its time for tuning......

Does anyone make a header for a 2600 4x4? Looking to get one soon.


Thanks again all.

Dave

LOL! So this whole time it was because of your wiring?

Haha! Amazing... So does that mean your pump is electric? Because mine is mechanical and there is no hookup for that.. Cause I assume that wire you hooked up was for your pump.

Its electric....

Now can someone help me with the 38's tuning?

- hooked up electric choke to 12v "keyed" source
- warmed up engine for over 20 minutes
- choke doesnt open at all like the tech guy from Redline says it should

Please explain this to me:



- choke disengaged? How? When I warmed up the engine, the choke doesnt move one bit.

If I hold the choke open and throttle up, it runs great. Let the choke go and try to throttle up, it floods, runs rough then stalls.

Is the electric choke broke or ????

(Weber guy also said DON'T hook it up to the coil; it will burn out the choke. I read somewhere that someone mentioned to do this. I checked the voltage from the coil and it fluctuates between 8 and 11 volts. How would that burn the choke out?)