Oil pan gasket

So aside from havign my rear-end problem I would like to address another problem.

When I pulled my tranny to redo the clutch, the bell housing was caked with gunk and oil. Engine oil to be exact! Now, WHO KNOWS the trick to replacing the oil pan gasket without pulling the tranny and rear plate?

Brother told me he basically pulls the engine and up a little. Drops the pan and removes the oil pump. Then slide it out so you don't need to worry about the crossmember... I DUNNO!

It seems like hell to do and I believe it may be the reason why I had so much crap in the bell housing?

I run syntec. Do you think that since its synthetic the oil leaks more than conentional? I dunno though, 10w-30, synthetic and conventional should'nt matter as long as the weights are a bit thick?

iff the bell housing is gunky toddluck told me to check your rear main seal on the block i guess they go out, mine might need replacing here when it goes to the shop

I re-sealed my oil pan on my '88 B2200 a few years ago, used Grey Permatex silicone sealant, no gasket. I did have to remove a tie rod end from its fitment, and remove what's called the gussets. It took me like half a day. That, with fixing the fuel pump gasket, the valve cover gasket, and replacing the power steering pump mean I don't need to park over an old piece of carpet anymore.

I know my rear seal is good. Usually when those suckers leak, you WILL know! My last truck had a rear seal that was bad and it was leaky!

I know its just my oil pan gasket, because thats where I can see all the oil leaking coming from... The guy who rebuilt it used some sort of clear sealant... I've been using the High-temp orange/red stuff and its been working GREAT!

How long did it really take you to do just the oil pan gasket itself?

Half-day for me; did not need to pull the tranny. I also replaced the valve cover gasket and distributor O-ring that day (both Mazda dealer-purchased).

You dont have to drop the tranny. you might have to drop some steering stuff but its not hard with the right tools. And most say its best not to use a gasket but just that High-temp gasket maker I like the copper stuff.

How do you get to the bolts in the tranny bell-housing?

there is 2 supports that come off the tranny to the side of the motor. they will come off with out dropping the tranny once there out you can get to all the bolts. If you can take it to a car wash and pressure wash the under side it will make it easer on yea. and you can see the separation lines of the parts much better

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Now, thats a good explanation!

I have only but 2 questions for you!

1. Do I need a specialty tool to remove the idler arm? Lol, matter of fact I dunno what that is..

2. The bellhousing cover is that metal plate piece, right? Mine extends down and blocks the bolts on the inside of the bell-housing. I think I may need to cut it out?

And another question! Its off-topic a bit... When I pulled my tranny, it was gunked up. I'm positive its the oil pan, because I did'nt see any other leaks from the rear. Now, On the tranny there is these 2 plastic deals on the bottom that just sit there. Are these meant to be removed so any debris can fall out or run out? Other then that, I dunno what its purpose would be...