engine knock or tick or something

so i have an engine knock. i've fixed an engine knock on my mom's volvo before by just changing the oil. i haven't changed the oil on my truck since i got it so i decided to start with that. i used the NAPA nascar select filter and castrol 10w-40 highmilage oil. after i changed the oil, i think the knock got a little quieter. i've been checking the oil level and it has been perfectly at the F mark on the dip stick so oil level isn't the problem. after a couple hundred miles, i noticed a little hose that was not attached to any thing bellow the carb. when the engine was running, there was air shooting out of where the hose was supposed to be. i'm pretty sure the hose has been off even when i got the truck. so i put the hose back on and in a day or two, the knock completly stops. but the knock only stoped for like 2 days. now its back to "normal". i dotn know what to do or how serious this is. i rechecked the hose and everything around it and it was fine so i think it might have just been a coincidence that the knock stopped for a bit. so if you guys have any suggestions or know anything about this and how to fix it or something please tell me because i dotn want shit to happen to my engine. thanks

oh and i was just wondering if i'm using the right oil grade. i use 10w-40. i live in everett, wa 98204 and right now its mostly in the lower 30's in the morning and the temp goes up to like upper 40's during the day i think. and some mornings the temp is in the upper 20's but not that often. i'm not sure if i'm using the right oil. if not, what do you guys recomend? thanks again

Try a 10w-30 with a lucas oil stabilizer.

I personally would not add any oil additives. At least this early in the game. I just dont trust them. And from the way it sounds you might be getting lifter tap, and the oil just made it quit for a few days. Have you tried adjusting them. I see that you have a B2000 those have manual lifters and if the person before you did not adjust them then there most likely way out of whack. Get a filler gauge and go .007-.008 IN & .009-.010 EX.

ya i'm sure the person before me didn't do anything cuz it was a girl.



i'm not exactly sure what this means. can someone help my out and explain? thanks

To tell the truth if you dont know what that means you need to take it to someone who does . Cuase you have to use feller gauges and they work just how the name says by fill. If you dont know how to use them you could do it wrong.

But the short and skinny is you take a thin piece of metal that is .007 in thickness. Now turn the cam so the lob is not pushing on the lifter. Then you losen the lock nut on the top of the lifter and run the gauge between the lifter and the valve steam. You then tighten the lifter till the gape between the lifter and valve is .007. You then tighten the jam nut holding the part that you turned to close the gape. You then recheck to make sure you did not mess it up when tighten the jam nut. you then do it on all 4 of the intake side. you then do the same on the exhaust side using the right gauges.

You will need a 10mm socket to take the valve cover off. A 12mm wrench for the jam nuts and a flat head screw driver for the adjustment part. also a 21 mm socket for the crank nut so you can trun the motor over . You can buy a Haynes book it is covered in there. But like I said its better to grab a buddy that knows how. Maybe a member who lives in WA will step up and help you out on it.

thanks. i'm gonna research it some more and if i understand it enough i'll try it. or if i get stuck i'll get my dad or uncle to help cuz they've done everything you can think of to engines.

i would get them to help you right off the bat so you can learn the proper way to do it.





-justin

true just say I wont to do this will you help me learn how to cuase you will have to do this every tune up. I do mine every time I change the oil.

its a mazda ride it out!! haha