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Mazda Lowering Static \  front end lowering options

front end lowering options

Mazda Lowering Static Mazda Suspension Mazda Tech
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following 11
 
mark   +1y
ill see if i can summarize it real quick bro.

1. remove wheel
2. remove 2 bolts on the back to remove brake caliper assembly
3. remove hub dust cap
4. remove cotter pin for bearings
5. remove nut for bearings
6. remove outer bearing
7. slide rotor/hub assembly out
8. remove cotternpins for upper and lower balljoint and tie rod ends
9. remove tie rod end castle nut and slide tie rod end out of spindle
10. remove upper balljoint nut and slide out from spindle (should not be bad on the top, the bottom is harder)
11. remove lower balljoint nut and slide out from spindle (this sucker will not go as easy as the top, i had to use a puller...one could probably hust hammer it down)


from there, install the new spindle.....you will have to modify the lower arms and cut the hump on the lower balljoints so you can literaly flip them, they are designed to be that way on the drop spindles, the taper on the spindle will not let you put it back in like it was stock

when you install the spindle in, make sure you grease the spindle, and just check your bearings, maybe put some grease on them if they got wiped off

you should be set then
joeyaces   +1y
Ok thanks Mark, Im sure I could do that. I had 3" blocks in my old B22 but I always wished it was a little bit lower(OK alot lower, but I would be satisfied with a little) so if I were to install drop spindles, would the 2"s they give me be added to the 3" blocks giving me 5" total? How much drop do you get from taking out a leaf?
vidraggin   +1y
How much lower than 3 inches in the back do you want to go? I would say that with the 2" spindles in the front and 3 inch blocks in the back, you would level out your ride. If you have already cranked the torsions down, then you will get 2 more inches in addition to what you have now. In the back, I pulled 2 leafs on my buddy's Maz and it put the fender on top of the tire. Its pretty low because this was on z71s with 205/50s. I would reccommend pulling the overload and see how that goes first.
mark   +1y
you should leave the overload in there, if you gonna pull all the leaf springs pull all but the main and overload, but dam, it's a hell of a ride fellas lol

since the mazda trucks aint got but 85hp, stacking blocks really wont make any probs, just keep checking the nuts, retighten them....but like vidraggin said, i think you'd be satisfied with a 3in block out back and the spindle drop up front....i wouldnt go any further than that, i'd bag it
blare   +1y
my truck is mono with no overload on three inch blocks. For the most part its riding bumpstops and like Mark said its a hell of a ride. I guess its bearable but i couldnt stand more than 2 months of it.
vidraggin   +1y


Im running my daily like that and it sucks. If you want to roll on the ground then this is the way to go, monoleaf and spindles/torsions, or just torsions. Keep in mind without spindles you will camber like crazy. The alignment shop can help some, but not completely.
impulse   +1y
im pulling my leafs and running 3" bloacks at the moment and flipping the BJ's with the torsions cranked... think i'll be pretty level or is the back gonna be lower?
team haymaker   +1y
im doing 4" blocks and no torsions, its a nasty ride
2fine89   +1y
jeeez I guess so shake yer damn fillings out.