baggin it

i donno shit bout all this other than i want it and slammed is THE hookup for it. i have the general idea of bags but thats all. so well hafta get together on icq. say....1130pm tonite?

yes thats cool

hey man i left u a message on icq, i was like 5min late...sorry bout that. and the whole yahoo/msn thing, i aint worried bout it because ur the first person that im actually holding a conversation with that doesnt involve making a deal on some mazda part. ah if they need me bad nuff they will get ahold of me haha -bf

slammed ever get an est. on labor?

According to suicide doors....i can get all of this for 830 and was double checking myself to make sure everything would go together ok. after i get this i godda get a 3 link or somthin then fittings and cups then it will be ready to be bagged, right?
where would yall suggest gettin fittings n cups from. also like slammed83 did, could i make a 3 link or would i be better off buyin one? and will i be ok w/o a water trap?

Compressor-Viair 300 150psi
Fill Valves-Airlift 3/8"
Dump-Airlift 3/8"
Switchbox- AVS ARC-9 Black 9 Rocker w/ Lock
Tank- 9 port 5 gal. slim n skinny
Front bags-Airlift 2B7 2600 190psi Dual Port
Rear bags-Airlift 2B7 2600 190psi Dual Port
Bag gauge- Viair 160psi dual needle black face
Tank gauge- Viair 160psi dual needle black face
Valve line-50' of 3/8" dot
Gauge line-50' of 1/4" dot
No water trap
Viair Pressure Switch and Relay 110/150psi

so what do yall think? -bf

oh yeah and a notch...

only way you will ever notice a difference in speed from mounting the valves on the tank, vs on the bags, is if your running retarded pressure and hopping.. Go ahead.. run 1 set of valves on the tank,a nd 1 set on the bag.. see if you notice any difference.. i guarantee it wont be very noticable, if at all.. Theoritically, the truck will actually ride better with the valves on the tank. Since the air is stored in the airlines from the bags all the way to the tank, There is more air being compressed, Thus lowering the spring rate of your bags.. allowing for a softer ride. If you ran 5/8" airline you might be alble to get almost 1/2-3/4 the total airspace of the bag Just in the line alone.. That would probably give you a noticable change in ride, then if you were to rout the valves right there on the bags.


as for your fittings. get em all at a truck store that sells stuff for tractor trailers and shit. You can order them from suicide doors. But make sure you plan out every line and shit first. so you know exactly what you need.


As for your link setup, you really dont have very many options. forward 4 link isnt going to work, since the gas tank is in the way.. you can run monoleafs but risk not laying out and breaking a leaf..(not good)

You can run a reverse 4 link.. And yea they work and all. But its a shitty setup. They pull the driveshaft out of the transmission, And transfer your power to the ground completely backwards.. Most people run them problem-free. But those are things that are possible when running that style link setup

What i would do is get under there, Fab up a crossmember thta goes over the gas tank and connects from frame rail to frame rail. Then you can have suicide doors make you a custom wishbone. or make one yourself if your welding skills are striat.. But have a custom wishbone made, You can do 1 mounting point on the top of the differential, And the other 2 on that crossmember you made over the gas tank

then run your lower bars as you would any other forward link setup.. That would give you a decent forward link setup that would give you minimum pinion angle change and a smooth operation with no worries of your driveshaft popping out or anything..

OR

you can do a 2 link. which is easily built using soem 2x2 box tubing, can be built for under $100 in most cases.

downfalls are:
youd need a panhard bar or crossbar to center the axle from moving side to side. Your pinion angle will constantly change with height. You can setup your pinion angle at ride heights and have no problems unless you ride really high or really low... at that point you might experience some vibrations from the u-joints.. Other downfall is that you get absolutely no axle articulation. so no side to sides at all.

so theres a few choices. Id stick to a forward link. 2 links are ok if you know your limitations and set it up correctly. I had one on my s10 with no trouble, and know plenty of people who ran them with no trouble. But i also know plenty of people who have had tons of problems. its all in the setup

damn. huge post man. thanks for the info. could u go 2 scd and do the build a kit thing and kinda show me what you would do? -bf

its all personal preferance man. When i had bags, i had an s10. i ran 1/2" valves and airline. i had SSC vavles, (similar to GC extremes) and i ran bags over the axle.

the 1/2" setup was quick, but i wanted it faster lol. I was going to upgrade to 5/8" line, but then i bodydropped it.. And didnt want to be smashing rockers up. so i never went to 5/8"

What id do personally. if i were to do bags again.. id get like an 8 gallon tank, and an air zenith compressor. Mount the tank under the bed between the frame rails. And the comprssor as well. Then i'd do a bag over axle setup. And get something like universal air's triple play bags. That will give you about 13" of lift in back, on a simple over the alxe setup. Would also give you the ride of a levered setup, since its a larger bag and has more air to compress.

for the front, get the torsion bar kit that suicide doors sells. And do a 2600 (like a re-7 slam specailties, or 2b7 airlift) bag up front if at all possible. On a mazda im not sure what work it will take to fit a large bag like that. i have juice so everythings more compact.

The airline size and valve size is up to you. depends how fast you want it.. PErsonally id do 1/2" line and valves. And run some valves to slow down the system a bit. you can run simple ball valves from home depot, or get the inline ones suicide doors sells. this way you can adjust the speed to a comfortalbe level for driving, But when you want to play around, you can open em up and slam it around.

And like i said in the last post, Id do a forward triangulated wishbone setup. suicide doors will build you a custom wishbone to your specs. All you'd need to do is make some measurements.

This is a toyota a guy on another forum is building.. This is what i plan on doing with my mazda, since the gastank is in the stock location.

if you do decide to go that route. few things to keep in mind..



make sure to have the front mounting points for your upper and lower bars as close to gether as possible.. In otherwords. you want the upper and lower bars to mount the same distance away from the axle. This will minimize pinoin change. The link bars should also be parallel to eachother. If you keep those 2 things in mind your setup will work great.

fann, with parts and labor your looking at around $2,500 im helping him build his building cause it will be in tommarow, and ill ask and see what i can do for ya