FLIPPIN THE FACTORY BALLJOINTS

Ok Im lost someone told me that all you had todo was unbolt the bottom ball joint and flip it and bolt it all back together and it works. Is this info I was given wrong?

couldn't he just buy these?

no ive got a set of drop spindles but there on my ext.cab. i just wanted to flip the balljoint 180 just like the drop spindles do. but either way it doesnt matter. im just gonna reindex my upper balljoints because there maxing out before it lays all the way out. oh and as far as what balljoints are used on the drop spindles, i dont have a clue, ive been asking the same question for a month and nobody will answer that one.

this will fix alot of your upper balljoint problems.

guys how do u think the tapered hole got there in the first place? it was drilled. he can re drill them if he wants

You keep saying spindle, do you mean lower control arm, and spindle matching, with a flipped BJ?

dude, I just performed this operation on my truck 2 nights ago, using all stock hardware. sorry I should clarify, B2200 long box 87 I have a few trucks,( all Mazda) Anyways, I could take some pics if you would like. But this is how it plays out.
Low jack style
-remove the spindle and brake assembly ( unbolt your BJs, undo the brake line and steering joint) note it helps to lube bolts they shear off real easy
-you have to cut the stock lower control arm, the bump has to go, in my research when you look at lowered arms DJM, AIM Belltech for ex. they will show the gap for you as they flip the BJ mounting as well , once you get it apart its easy to see why and how ONLY REMOVE AS MUCH AS NEEDED
-if your joints are not shot, reuse them, DO NOT USE A TORCH TO HEAT UP THE BOLTS ON THE BJs YOU WILL BOIL THE GREASE OUT AND HARM THE RUBBER JACKET DRY OUT THE BJ AND DESTROY IT.
-now with the spindle removed, I used a die grinder and HALF round file to reverse the taper in the spindle. Some of us are blessed with press machines but not all of us have pro shops,
-this did not take long to do, keep this fit as tight as possible, I tapered the spindle until there was an 8th inch left between the BJ and spindle when you tighten the ball joint it will flush up for ya.
-then reassemble, your stock 14's will not fit anymore because we increased the length of the assembly but who cares!
-the stock BJs have threads in them and I used the 12mm bolts, just upside down so my BJ sits on top of the arm
-another thing to consider is your top arm does not have much clearance(upward travel ) ater this mod I recommend mounting the shock higher , or if yer gonna bag, relocate the shock mounts and use drop shocks (doeschtech from AIM)

let me know if you have any Qs
Dan

i used a die gringed to retaper the spindle

Obviously the hole was drilled. My concern is that if it is redrilled from the other end then only about half of the hole will be in contact with the balljoint. It might be ok but maybe not. I drew up the pic below in MS paint to demonstrate. The blue is what would be removed to fit the balljoint from the bottom, and the red is what will not be touching. The pic is just an example though and not based on any measurements.

madamandan, so finally an answer, thanx man, so you have drilled and retappered the spindles. oh i think you wasted a lot of typing by tring to tell me how to take it all apart, i own a shop, i do it for a living, but thank you for taking the time to explain what others wont. oh and as far as the taper from both side and the balljoint shaft only making contact on only half of it, what about making a tappered sleve to fit inside of the spindle to fix that problem?

Right on man! Press a filler in there and then redrill.