FLIPPIN THE FACTORY BALLJOINTS

yeah i think im gonna try it, i mean it cant hurt to try, and if it doesnt work for whatever reason, ive still got another set of spindles.

a press fit bushing would be totally pro!

i hope so, i just hope it works, but like i said ive still got another set

hey guys..
I just posted up a request for a tutorial, comments, etc. on cutting your upper arms.
You may also want to visit my post over the next couple of days to see what all has been said.

OK so all that you do is flip the lower ball joint (retaper, etc)and leave the top one pointing down. Then you change the angle of the top ball joint by cutting the upper control arm as illustrated by dimotorsports in his picture.

Alright, one last question, Can you use a drop spindle along with flipping the ball joint using 16" wheels?

why the drop spindles com with new flipped joints

you can run them, but depending on the truck itself. but most of the time the tie rod ends rub on the wheel

most trucks you have to run a 17 or larger so that the tie-rod end does not rub the wheel. offset will also be a factor in this. but as we all know, we cant have low offset wheels because they will stick out.


and well about the re-drilling the spindle deal. i figured if you knew to drill out the spindle, you should know to slide a sleeve in there to have the taper to match the balljoint. sorry for the assumption

This is on my daily driver (winter included) so I just wanted a huge static drop in the front with bags in the rear. I don't want to have the torsions turned down at all. I want actually be able to raise the front in the winter with the torsions and just add air in the back.

So the the sensus is that this setup will work wheel depending? How much will this actually drop the front of the truck with the torsions at factory level? Thanks for your help.

i'll post a pic , I bet I got 2 inches at ://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l24/mazdamandan/dans%20mazda%20b2200/DSC00935.

not mine but a good set