Something I havent seen asked before

ya btu alot of guys end up looking at it with the slag on it and get scared thinking that is the finished weld not realizing that under the slag is the weld that you will see in the end and most times that ends up looking nice.

right on well ill prolly run through a box of practice rod b4 i attempt anything on my truck

not only that, but proper metal fit and bevel the piss out of it so you get good penetration..

u can also heat up everything with some torches first, thats what i did for my front on my first mazda and they turned out fine...

Well like I said I havent ever done any welding that would have weight on it.. I have shaved stuff and thats it.. I just get kinda scared thinkin about what might happen... I dont wanna think oh its good to go sit the truck on the ground and bam all the welds break..

But to bring up a point, you say you just have to know what you're doing. Well, what about the guys that just learned, and are bagging their trucks? No offense, but I probably wouldn't ride in one of them. I wouldn't ride in a truck that was notched, 4 linked, or bagged up front with a 110 welder. 220 is the way to go, period, especially if you're new to welding.

If I was new to welding I'd have someone else weld my truck until I was confident enough in my welding abilities to be able to do it. If you don't trust their welds with a 110 than I wouldn't trust their welds at all. Covering up bad welding with more power isn't the answer.

hey twisted mini does that mean that you wouldn't ride in my rides as I said I was using a 110 mig for along time before I got my 220 and Cid's truck was done with both. I think BagdB2200 hit it on the nose if you are worried about someone 's welds with a 110 do you really think going to 220 will make difference.

I've done alot of work with 110 and 220 units, and baggedb2200 is dead on. A 110 unit will work, but really it needs to be used by an experienced welder. You also need to remember that a good 135 amp 110 unit will weld 3/16 in a single pass. That's 2x as thick as a factory frame. Agreed, you will need to properly bevel any thicker plate, probably run a root pass plus a 2nd run, but it can be done very safely with a 110. The biggest problem I've seen as of late are guys grabbing the biggest welder they can get their hands on, turning it up and becoming a "fabricator" over night, hammering a bunch of 1/4" shit on their factory frames and calling it good. A larger 220 unit makes it alot easier to make a weld that will hold, but it also masks the lack of ability of alot of guys. It's VERY easy to weld too hot on a frame, wind up with a huge heat affected area (read: brittle) and undercut a weld, all while having a weld that looks great, and will hold for a while, possibly a long while.

For what it's worth, alot of the suspension work I did 4, 5, 6 years ago with a 110 unit is still on the road, and I have NEVER had a weld fail.

My best advice to you is, before you buy a welder, go buy some books on metalurgy and theory, maybe hit up a class at your local community college or find an experienced wedler who's willing to help, and learn the basics before you start sticking shit to your truck.

This guy also makes a good point. I will admit it can be done, but I still say 220. I practiced welding for almost 3 whole years before I felt I had become good enough to build a truck with heavy frame mods. I learned a lot from my uncle, who is one of the most proficient welders I know, and I took classes for it. Welding is not something to take lightly.