Something I havent seen asked before

no offense - i hate to say it, but maybe you might wanna just sit this one out, let a professional fabricator handle it.

well tod to answer your question that stick welder will do fine. just slag will make you think you are doing an awful job. so before you just try to do another pass knock the slag off and inspect the weld, it could be a very good weld and you not even know it due to the slag. and never try to just weld over slag, always knock it off

Oh! I want to put in my .02 cents!

110 and 220 is different by voltage. 220 will handle thicker metal and that is why they have it. It has much more penetration capabilities han a 110.

I'm sure we all have the point taken!

Although, 220 is easier for a new welder to weld thicker steel, therein becomes a matter of his technique.

You guys are both right! But having a 220 with great skills of moving that puddle that stitches the steel together is by far going make any structural area the strongest.

But oh, contrare! I believe for the thickness of steel we are welding, having clean, bare, freshly ground steel mating surfaces using a 110 mig with ".035 flux-core wire is still going to work doing DOUBLE passes...

I think if you can help it, say like on C-notches, drill like 4 holes per end in like a square pattern and do PLUG welds as well would help keep things solid as well. More insurance, I say...

If you have slag on a weld, you cannot weld that bead again until its knocked off. Slag will not allow the welder to weld over it. Not conductive..

Not always is this highest voltage setting going to make a better weld then one with a lower setting. Wire speed is also a crititcal factor. If you have too hot of a weld it will overstress the metal.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure as you increase wire speed it increases amperage. But like always, before you even weld, you should weld scrap steel that will be the same thickness you will be welding and TEST your welds! I said this in todd's thread, and it is the ultimate way of knowing you are doing a good job.

Okay, I think I'll stop, its probably going to cause more controversy, lol!

WOO HOO!!!! THATS WHY MY 1ST BAGGED MAZDA HELD UP!!!!!!


I used an AC?DC stick, it was a 220 unit. I used 1/8th 7018 rods.

yup i have a 110 but i diddnt use it on my frame the backhalf and frant brackets are all welded with 220 stick.. i think 7014 rods.. it may be overkill but hey i NEVVER have to worry about a weld failing

Its best to use smaller wire with a 110 welder. Most of them have trouble burning .035 and will do better with .030 or .023.

I use ".035 flux-core on 5/16th steel.

I have a Lincoln electric Pro Mig 140. Lincoln says it can handle it, but will have to do a double pass with it. Fine by me!

I have'nt had any problems with the welds...

Besides when I bought it, the starter pack included .035 flux and .025 solid...

Eh, anyways, if my truck falls apart with it, I suppose you will owe me a, "I told you so!"

I guess I should have read the flux part. Lol. Flux burns hotter, naturally. But if using solid wire, the smaller sizes are better with a 110 because of the heating properties.

if i were at the point of welding brackets and notches to my frame i would definitely arc weld them. not that there is any thing wrong with mig welding but i would feel safer with arc welding to my frame.