5 lug conversion

correct me if i am wrong but what i need to do this is yota spindels ball joints and rotors up front and rx7 mustang or yota rear

if this is correct will my factory a arms and brake calipers work

and will a yota rear just bolt in

we seriously need a sticky about this in a bad way. im tryin to do this my self and there is soo many thread on this and they all say different things. so whoever has done this please write a how to or make a list of what is needed.

ask seth

Short answer = no.

Is your truck bagged? Then you need to weld on new tabs. Is it sprung? If so, the leaf spring mounts are close to the same width, and if you're ghetto you can oval some holes and bolt it on. But personally I would remove the leaf spring perches and put new ones on, sine they are only $20, or can be made for maybe $5.

Then you have to deal with the drive shaft. You need the Toyota drive shaft adapted to the end of the Mazda drive shaft. This will cost between $100 and $200 depending on it it needs to be re-tubed.

AutoZone carries some "Adapter U-joints" to adapt a drive shaft from one vehicle, to the yoke of another. Personally, I wouldn't to this, for a few reasons. I don't like ghetto stuff, and if it fails on a road trip or at a show, most places will not stock it, and you won't be able to get it changed. Auto Zone themselves has to order them.


As far as the front, swapping to a Toyota spindle is the ghetto way. You will create more bump steer than the Mazda has from the factory. They already have enough as it is, creating more will make it a nuisance to drive. What you need to do, is buy the machined hubs that TOYBOY89 on SSM makes. They bolt on, and come with a Toyota or S10 bolt pattern, and they come with a rotor you can get at any parts store, and the hub itself is machined to put the rotor in the correct spot.

That, or you need to contact Jon, laynrockers on SSM, and send him your spindles, and have them machined to accept a Toyota hub and rotor, and then space out your caliper.

my reg cab is the old school way and everything is redrilled to 5 lug, I like it keeps everything mazda and for the set of rims I have it works great

well i guess mine is the ghetto way but it works really good no matter what anyone says so it is not really easy to do it either way, so i personally think that it is easier to changed the who;e spindle and huds out and just use an s-10 upper balljoint, and ur stock lower but flipped/ moved to the top of the lower, and use the toyota outer tierods and wham u got a more narrow front end and a better rim selection. and the rear i have had my drive shaft sleeved and a toyota end put on it so hell it is really up to u but the whole bump steer thing is complete bull shit if u ask me but hell who am i i just build and do this all week long .... ed.customs wreckn sheetmetal ao tha daily

hey ga, how did u get the tie rods to work? some say the go in good, some say there loose, so say u need to weld the 2 together and so on. what did u do?

well yea it works well. i took and cut some off the toyota tierod and took a piece of chromoly and slide over the end of it and then welded the jam nut off the mazduh outer to the other end of the chromoly tubing, this way it is still adjustable ed.customs wreckn sheetmteal on tha daily

Bumpsteer is real.

I never said it wouldn't work, we went over this is another thread.

right but u do make out like bump steer will make a truck difficult to drive.... buddy