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Mazda Lowering Static \ Which Engine Driven is best for 12 gallons.Which Engine Driven is best for 12 gallons.
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mazdamn
+1y
the 508 and 509s have 5 internal pistons, the 708 and 709s have 7 internal pistons.
This is from the blow-by topic on the other thread.
Just wanted to let all you sanden people out there know that sanden compressors are designed to pass oil, the piston rings (single metal on the 5 cyl and dual nylon on the 7 cyl ) are designed to assist in compression and keep the piston centered in the cylinder (and if you don't believe me ask Sanden engineering) in fact the pistons on the 508 have little holes right below the rings that are designed to assist the oil to get by the rings and flow with the refrigerant, it is an entire closed loop system. (and sanden will also tell you that the 5 cylinder is better to run for pumping air because it has steel cylinder liners cast into the aluminum housing with steel piston rings, the 7 cylinder has nylon rings against aluminum cylinder walls, not as heavy duty and the dual rings do not hold back any more oil than the steel one because they are fixed around the piston and in the 508 the ring is like a car engine ring that can expand, this will help keep some compression if it starts to wear) The oil is supposed to flow with the refrigerant through the head AND the case of the compressor, the compressor has a small tube inside that connects the suction side of the head to the case (via porting on the main bearing side) this pulls oil from the case into the inlet ports of the pistons and then it gets pumped out the pressurized side, some oil will always remain in the case, and when you shot off your A/C the system equalizes through the areas in the compressor that are designed to pass the oil and refrigerant and the process will start all over again. Thats why you will have different amounts of oil in the compressor if you are filling it with no oil in the rest of your system or you are just replacing the oil that was lost in the compressor if you have to change it.
Now after all that said we can throw it out the window when we are pumping air because we are trying to now separate the oil in the case from the air, sanden compressors are splash lubricated just like the Yorks. (and by the way York pumps do not have a "sump" I don't know where this came from they are splash lubricated like any other reciprocating pump of that style) The sandens simply sit on their side and the oil is brought up and around inside the pump via the casting/wobbleplate design inside that spins and moves the pistons back and fourth, it is very reliable and lubricates the needle bearing rings quite well. This oil WILL get pass the piston rings and get into the airstream, there is no way arond it unless you run VERY little oil in your compressor and it will then run very hot and you will only be able to fill a 10 gallon tank before you are over 250 degrees, this pump when properly lubricated should be able to run just like you would if you were running your a/c normally. The pressure there is over 150-200 psi on the high side right? so what is the difference, the difference is most people who convert sandens to run air starve the compressor for oil in efforts to get around the blow by, and by the way you DO NOT need an oiler on the intake side because it sucks oil from the case into that side anyway internally, what you need to do it let the oil flow inside the compressor the way it was designed to do so you avoid over heating and separate the oil later and return it to the case via the plug on the top of the compressor, just like an industrial rotary screw compressor that lasts for thousands of hours does, lubricate EVERYTHING inside the compressor and separate the oil and air later, if you can do that you will be able to fill your pump with the factory recommended amount of oil and not have to worry about blowby because you are capturing the oil later and returning it back to the case. Hope this sheds some light because a lot of people seem to now know exactly what is going on in a sanden, they can be used reliably to pump air you just have to keep a lot of oil in them.
And if you want to try and fill your pump with grease, go ahead and then run it for about 5 minutes, even the grease will get past the piston rings, ive tried this on and old AND brand new compressor of the 5 and 7 piston series and the grease made it past into the outlet side, plus the grease will not penetrate well into the main input shaft bearing or needle bearing rings leading to premature compressor failure.
This is from the blow-by topic on the other thread.
Just wanted to let all you sanden people out there know that sanden compressors are designed to pass oil, the piston rings (single metal on the 5 cyl and dual nylon on the 7 cyl ) are designed to assist in compression and keep the piston centered in the cylinder (and if you don't believe me ask Sanden engineering) in fact the pistons on the 508 have little holes right below the rings that are designed to assist the oil to get by the rings and flow with the refrigerant, it is an entire closed loop system. (and sanden will also tell you that the 5 cylinder is better to run for pumping air because it has steel cylinder liners cast into the aluminum housing with steel piston rings, the 7 cylinder has nylon rings against aluminum cylinder walls, not as heavy duty and the dual rings do not hold back any more oil than the steel one because they are fixed around the piston and in the 508 the ring is like a car engine ring that can expand, this will help keep some compression if it starts to wear) The oil is supposed to flow with the refrigerant through the head AND the case of the compressor, the compressor has a small tube inside that connects the suction side of the head to the case (via porting on the main bearing side) this pulls oil from the case into the inlet ports of the pistons and then it gets pumped out the pressurized side, some oil will always remain in the case, and when you shot off your A/C the system equalizes through the areas in the compressor that are designed to pass the oil and refrigerant and the process will start all over again. Thats why you will have different amounts of oil in the compressor if you are filling it with no oil in the rest of your system or you are just replacing the oil that was lost in the compressor if you have to change it.
Now after all that said we can throw it out the window when we are pumping air because we are trying to now separate the oil in the case from the air, sanden compressors are splash lubricated just like the Yorks. (and by the way York pumps do not have a "sump" I don't know where this came from they are splash lubricated like any other reciprocating pump of that style) The sandens simply sit on their side and the oil is brought up and around inside the pump via the casting/wobbleplate design inside that spins and moves the pistons back and fourth, it is very reliable and lubricates the needle bearing rings quite well. This oil WILL get pass the piston rings and get into the airstream, there is no way arond it unless you run VERY little oil in your compressor and it will then run very hot and you will only be able to fill a 10 gallon tank before you are over 250 degrees, this pump when properly lubricated should be able to run just like you would if you were running your a/c normally. The pressure there is over 150-200 psi on the high side right? so what is the difference, the difference is most people who convert sandens to run air starve the compressor for oil in efforts to get around the blow by, and by the way you DO NOT need an oiler on the intake side because it sucks oil from the case into that side anyway internally, what you need to do it let the oil flow inside the compressor the way it was designed to do so you avoid over heating and separate the oil later and return it to the case via the plug on the top of the compressor, just like an industrial rotary screw compressor that lasts for thousands of hours does, lubricate EVERYTHING inside the compressor and separate the oil and air later, if you can do that you will be able to fill your pump with the factory recommended amount of oil and not have to worry about blowby because you are capturing the oil later and returning it back to the case. Hope this sheds some light because a lot of people seem to now know exactly what is going on in a sanden, they can be used reliably to pump air you just have to keep a lot of oil in them.
And if you want to try and fill your pump with grease, go ahead and then run it for about 5 minutes, even the grease will get past the piston rings, ive tried this on and old AND brand new compressor of the 5 and 7 piston series and the grease made it past into the outlet side, plus the grease will not penetrate well into the main input shaft bearing or needle bearing rings leading to premature compressor failure.
elbine69
+1y
I have heard that the R-12 compressors are better than the r-134a. Dont know if thats true or not. Ive only used r-12 ones though.
mazdamn
+1y
R-12 and R-134a are the COOLANTS. The compressors can run either. R-12 is phased out, replaced by R-134. Its nothing to do with the compressor. Just what makes the air cold.
mazdamn
+1y
So did the jiggs that stole them.
I sold the truck to a guy in Jackson, named Brian. IMMEDIATELY after, he came down with some bone degenerative thing, and he couldnt walk for months, and he's over 400 lbs. He brought it to a shop to redo shit, they blew the engine, stripped the truck of its PERFECT interior, the tails, the tank, and the valves. They left it with a seat, and 4 torn bags.
Brian sold it to Adam. He's a dumb fuck. Its finished. It will never be driven again. |End.
I regret selling it. I sold it for $3k with a $600 Pioneer HU, Boston Acoustic 4" comps in the dash, and Kappa 6.5" comps in the rear.......i got that gauge back tho
I sold the truck to a guy in Jackson, named Brian. IMMEDIATELY after, he came down with some bone degenerative thing, and he couldnt walk for months, and he's over 400 lbs. He brought it to a shop to redo shit, they blew the engine, stripped the truck of its PERFECT interior, the tails, the tank, and the valves. They left it with a seat, and 4 torn bags.
Brian sold it to Adam. He's a dumb fuck. Its finished. It will never be driven again. |End.
I regret selling it. I sold it for $3k with a $600 Pioneer HU, Boston Acoustic 4" comps in the dash, and Kappa 6.5" comps in the rear.......i got that gauge back tho