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Mazda Lowering Static \  new pics of front bags

new pics of front bags

Mazda Lowering Static Mazda Suspension Mazda Tech
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replies 21
following 10
 
slammin91   +1y
I fixed my upper bag mount, made it so the to plates were same distance apart when fully compressed. Bag will be about 1/2" from frame when compressed I'll need to grind a little on my filler plates to make the 1/2" work I think it will be ok since when bag is aired up it will be pushing the frame up if I'm thinking of this right. I'll make the next one a little longer. I have drop spindles and it lays out without notching Lca on 17's. How does it look?





elbine69   +1y
Looks pretty good now.
3rdtimesacharm   +1y
the welds look nice but i would weld some triangle plates on the side of the upper bracket, and weld a peice of 1\4 steel from the shock support to the upper bracket for some more support. it will be a little safer.this might help you a little.
speedster93b   +1y
looks like your upper plate could be a hair shorter to make the bag line up with itself a little better - but it might just be the pic...
slammin91   +1y
I got gussets for the top plate just havn't put them in yet. The space between the to plates is the same in the middle, if I make top plate a little shorter as in the lenght, my bag will be to close to my frame. right now probably have just a hair over 1/4" from frame I'll gain more by grinding down filler plates.
So to fix the space from the frame problem should I move bottom plate out? set it on my lower ball joint plate? The top is determand by your bottom plate If you want bag to compress flat the top plate needs to be straight up from the bottom. If u move top plate in or out it for bag to clear frame it makes bag compress crooked which is what we don't want. Just wondering for next truck.

thanks.
elbine69   +1y
Yah if you moved your bottom bag plate over towards the balljoint that would gain you a little clearance.
slammin91   +1y
Well one side is done and I hope to have other side done by the end of the weekend. I would like to test the bags when I'm done. What's the easiest way to do that? I should have everything, air line, fittings, valves....
I thought I would run eaqual lenght air lines from each bag to a T then use my air comp to pump them up to 120psi cause thats what the bags max out at. So if bag says 120psi max is it safe to run that high or maybe 110psi? Is this how I would test them.

thanks.
immortal1 (linn)   +1y
Couple of things... Bag mounts look good. A LITTLE mismatch on the bag mounts wont hurt the bag as much as rubbing on the frame. If you move the lower bag mount out further over the lower ball joint, then you may have issues with changing the lower ball joint later on.

120psi seemed kinda low for an air bag, but on the other hand ride height for my truck is around 60-70 psi with RE-6 bags so 120 should be fine unless you plan on hop'n the truck

The air lines do not necessarily HAVE to be the same length. If you are running 8 valves then the above is irrelevant. A "tee" with a simple gas or water shut off valve work fine for testing and moving the truck around.
slammin91   +1y
Thanks, I'll try that.
slammin91   +1y
having a little trouble figureing out how to mount shocks? I bought toxic drop shocks looks like they have 5" of travel? My bag sitting just sitting not aired up or anything is 6 1/2" does this mean I will only get 5" of lift because of my shock?
I got shock relocator kits and was going to mount to Lca on cab side not sure how to attach to Lca. Was thinking about taking a 3/16 plate about 7" long notch my Lca for plate to slide in weld around it and on other side of plate where shock goes weld some tabs for the bolt to go through on the shock. If anyone has some pics that would be great.

thanks.