Z'd frame guys...will it work?

Well I just had a what you might call a brain fart today & I was wantin to hear from some of the z'd frame guys on your opinions.


Static Dropped with a z'd frame! Will it work with leaf springs?

My plans are just to have a nice static dropped truck with airshocks on it but, i want it to look as clean as possible & I figured with a z'd frame, I could raise the floor in my 4wd bed when i find one & Clear the axle with a small notch in the z'd rear (i.e. no cut out bed floor)

Let me know what you guys think & thanks in advance for the tips!

I've seen it done before and as always anything is possible with enough money and a decent design. Before you go about doing a static drop I would personally do the Z'ed frame first. then do the drop that way the trucks not stuck with only half a inch of ground clearance.

Yeah that's what I was actually planning, my truck used to be hammered laying on axle in the back, but I put 2 leafs & my torsion bars back in w 3 inch blocks & if i measured the distance right, with a z in the frame, I can put it down as low as it was before with the same ride quality it has now, btw anybody know how good of ride quality I can get on the front with indexed torsions & the upper bumpstop bracket removed? Do you think I can go back this low and still retain decent ride quality???


I wanna do spindles in the front but I can't run my 15 inch pathfinder's with them right???

Once again thanks for the input & anymore ideas on the z would be appreciated!

If you Z the frame you should be able to be that low and have a better ride quality. When Z-ing a frame your essentially just raising the frame and with that the suspension mounting points so to get the truck that low again you won't have to do as much of a drop which in turn will give you back more suspension travel.

Sounds just like I want but any Ideas about the front?

Yeah the key to a better ride in the front is to remove the bumpstop and related bracket, then super short shocks and finally re-indexing your torsions. Flipping the lower ball joint to the top of the control arm will help with binding amd you can save the cost of dropped spindles which are not necessary with 15" wheels.

Ok next question is there any way to reduce the camber in the front, because like I said it's just going static drop, but wanting' to figure everything out first.

Thanks

Shims between upper a-arm and frame, will get you close.

you will be cutting it close when you z the rear. theres not much room between the cab mount and the factory leaf mount. it is possible to do though. you can z it 4 inches and take your blocks out. as for the front like they said cut the mount off of the frame completely and that will give you more travel before bottoming out. as far as the shims go, removing them will make the camber go away.

Yeah...that's what I meant....LOL.