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Mazda Lowering Static \ 2 link rear setup2 link rear setup
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replies 42
following 15
baddawg253
+1y
im trying to figure out a set up too! i have really nice two link bars but i dont have any room in back of my rear end to run a panhard or a watts link.. my buddy said i might be able to connect the two bars strait across the back and that would work but ill loose my side to side wich sucks a donkey... any thoughts guys???
blackesdime
+1y
I sure wouldn't...
a 4-link set up wrong can:
cause your vehicle to understeer/oversteer unsafely
cause you to have no traction under acceleration
cause far worse pinion issues then any 2-link
cause the rear of the truck to become light and unstable under hard brakeing.
If you set up a 4-link with no geometry (upper/lower bars parallel to each other) you will have no instant center. Your bars will never intersect (in an imaginary) line giving you no instant center. This gives you no traction under acceleration and poor breaking. if they "intersect" behind the axle, they will actually pick up the axle on torque load or braking. having it point behind the axle will also make your pinion move OPPOSITE to your suspension radius.
If you don't set up your roll steer, your rear end of the vehicle will steer the back of the vehicle excessively.
With a 2 link, its pretty hard to make it unsafe. Your front bushings set your instant center, so the truck will have traction no matter what and if they're parallel to each other, you will have a set and safe roll steer.
Now how you set this up will determine how bad it is on the trucks components itself, but as far as driving safety goes... a 2-link is safer then a bag 4-link. and again, most people don't know how to REALLY set one up. I see "shops" setting them up TERRIBLY all the time.
I sure wouldn't...
a 4-link set up wrong can:
cause your vehicle to understeer/oversteer unsafely
cause you to have no traction under acceleration
cause far worse pinion issues then any 2-link
cause the rear of the truck to become light and unstable under hard brakeing.
If you set up a 4-link with no geometry (upper/lower bars parallel to each other) you will have no instant center. Your bars will never intersect (in an imaginary) line giving you no instant center. This gives you no traction under acceleration and poor breaking. if they "intersect" behind the axle, they will actually pick up the axle on torque load or braking. having it point behind the axle will also make your pinion move OPPOSITE to your suspension radius.
If you don't set up your roll steer, your rear end of the vehicle will steer the back of the vehicle excessively.
With a 2 link, its pretty hard to make it unsafe. Your front bushings set your instant center, so the truck will have traction no matter what and if they're parallel to each other, you will have a set and safe roll steer.
Now how you set this up will determine how bad it is on the trucks components itself, but as far as driving safety goes... a 2-link is safer then a bag 4-link. and again, most people don't know how to REALLY set one up. I see "shops" setting them up TERRIBLY all the time.
paparoach1983
+1y
ANYONE HAVE A DECENT 2 LINK SET UP WITH PICS CUZ THIS IS HOW I AM GOING TILL I BUILD MY BACK HALF
bonewerx
+1y
so with a two link how can you keep ur driveshaft from moving in and out????? thats whats mine is doing...its pissin me off
speedster93b
+1y
yada yada yada. under an extreme condition sure whatever. these are minitrucks dude, not race cars. i'd roll a 4link parallel (no instant center) any day over a 2link, if i had the room. if it was a car perhaps and i wanted to keep the back seat, i might opt for a 2link, but they're bunk for any large lift, because of the pinion angle change and the panhard swinging the axle. sure longer bars will help, but it'll still do it. you can't stop that madness. besides as mentioned the 2link works good for factory aplications with minimal wheel travel. i think nascar even used that chevy trailing link design for YEARS. its solid and it works. for an airsuspension, not so much. there are way better options
yada yada yada. under an extreme condition sure whatever. these are minitrucks dude, not race cars. i'd roll a 4link parallel (no instant center) any day over a 2link, if i had the room. if it was a car perhaps and i wanted to keep the back seat, i might opt for a 2link, but they're bunk for any large lift, because of the pinion angle change and the panhard swinging the axle. sure longer bars will help, but it'll still do it. you can't stop that madness. besides as mentioned the 2link works good for factory aplications with minimal wheel travel. i think nascar even used that chevy trailing link design for YEARS. its solid and it works. for an airsuspension, not so much. there are way better options
mazdaman82
+1y
thats a 5link and they are very good for getting lift when space is small, the bags are on the lift links and the axle is held in with 3 links the top link act as a link and the pan hard at the same time keeping it stright, if you have the room it will do the job great
90-b22dawg [andrew]
+1y
i dont see how that set-up works.... if the lower links are on two pivots on the bottom of the axle and theres a one piviot on top.... how does it keep from twisting even under regular driving?
i dont see how that set-up works.... if the lower links are on two pivots on the bottom of the axle and theres a one piviot on top.... how does it keep from twisting even under regular driving?
90-b22dawg [andrew]
+1y
or have a slip yoke put in your drive shaft like speedster did.... hes running a 4 link and youd be surprised at how much it moves in and out durning the cycle....
or have a slip yoke put in your drive shaft like speedster did.... hes running a 4 link and youd be surprised at how much it moves in and out durning the cycle....