Lowest static dropped Mazda

Hey guys,

I am getting ready to build a daily driver Mazda B2200, i want to static drop it as low as possible, the lowest you can go before you have to bag it to get lower. if anyone has a tech article or some specs on how to do this, i would really really appreciate it!! Thanks guys!

3" blocks, pull the middle leafs (leave the main and the short overload), reindext torsions, cut down bump stops. shorter shocks.

you can do upto 5 inch blocks but those drops get a little squirley.

just to save yourself alot of problems dont do anything over 3. anything more then that you are going to end up with alot of axle warp and bad pinion angle and stress on the carrier bearing (if you have one)

not to sure if there is a tech article on here, but i did it once and got it 1/2" off the ground tuckin on 15's, all you need to do is cut the bump stop out and do a ball jount flip then crank down and reindex your torstion bars so they dont drag off,and pulled the middle leafs then i cut a c-notch in the frame to get the rear down but keep the floor, if you do it right you can get low as hell befor you have to bag it, but there are a lot of places you will not be able to get in to................ all this is done on stock parts...... do not put biger then 3" blocks ITS NOT SAFE your axle is to far from the mount

Thanks guys for all the advice!! I deff cant wait to slam that sucker! Just curious though, i have heard of reindexing the torsion bars, but im not exactly sure on how to do that, so if someone could explain i would really appreciate it! And if you could find a tech article that would be great too!! thanks guys!

i did mine with 4'' blocks and singleleaf in the back. i have a 2 part driveshaft so angle wasnt affected. As for front i had flipped upper andlower ball joints, re keyed torsions and cut bumpstops. Scraped over bumpstops and watch out for potholes they will kill you.

i thank theres one on here not to sure, but what you do is take the bar crank it down mark it ,jack the truck up take the bar off,if you look close you will see that the ends can slide off take one end and pull it off and rotate it and put it back on so it is back up over the scrub line, you get the drop but with out the bolt hanging down do this in small bits until you get the drop you want, careful not to take it to far as you most take the bump stop out to get really low

I wouldn't recomend this at all. But when my buddy and I were trying to back out the adjuster bolt for the tortion bars, the driver side one got stuck. We took a breaker bar and ended up snapping the bolt in half rendering the tortion bar un attached. This will tuck your tire with stock parts. It was a sunday night and I work the 9-5 so I couldn't make it to a junk yard till the next weekend. I ended up taking out the adjuster bolt on the other side to keep it even. Both sides tucked and the ride sucked balls since my only suspension was bumpstop in front. Again I don't recomend it but that was pretty low.

To finish off the story the next saturday I was at the junk yard when they opened and I grabbed 3 adjuster bolt incase anything else like that happened again.

i have 4 inch blocks in the rear and cranked torsions bars truck sits 12 inchs above the ground all the way around