Lowest static dropped Mazda

well hes wanting to get as low as he can and that is the only way to do it on stock parts and if he go's any lower he will need to cut out the stops anyway...... but then the only thing that will stop the bump is the ground.... and yes there is a chance that they will break they are in the water all the time and will rust

probably not real safe but before i bagged mine i had 5" of block on a mono leaf with a notch, and on the front no torsions or bumpstops. small pic but its all i got

but if you do a little bit of each step you can get low as hell with out bags,redoing your bars if you are going low its a must, dont want anything hanging lower then the frame that can put you on the side of the road if it breaks

i had 5" blocks that i built and the main leaf and the short leaf. cut the front bumps out, reindexed torsions, flipped both ball joints. before that i had tweaked torsions and 5" blocks with all the leafs. i autocrossed my truck then. never had a problem with axle wrap and bearings or anything. but with the blocks and mono i built a notch to clear the axle. you will almost definitly have to dop this or you will be bouncing off of every bump!
hell i even drove from north dakota to north carolina and back!

you also had the whole pack so no wrap....5" one leaf it will wrap like a pdiddy on a mic....sorry..
but everything else is about right... i went a step more and cut half the overload off and used it like a wrap stopper

ya, but even after i went mono i never had any problems.

How much lower in the front do you guys go than in the rear? Im just trying to set mine up and no matter what I do it doesnt look right lol..

i had mine set at maybe 1 inch lower in the front, my crossmember was a only 1/2 inch off the ground too

ive measured from the center of my fender wheels to the ground and its about an inch an a half higher in the back, truck looks about level but the front tucks and the back is about a finger different. OCD. IM sorry.

Also a BD, will bring ya down, if that was not mentioned.
If I did a static again I'd def do that.
And to keep a good steering radius, and clearance I'd not go bigger than 17" wheels

I would look into a quick adjustable coilover drop shock for the front.
Remove the torsions all together, when yer low with no switch to rescue you on the street, tearing off the adjustment bolts is no fun, seen that one before, lol.
Drop spindles, with flipped bjs.
Move or shave the bumpstops up front too.
Also replace all the rubber bushings up front if they are original with lots of wear, it makes a difference esp handling characteristics, swaybar links etc.

In the rear, bell tech drop mono leafs, cut down the bumpstops, ALWAYS use new U bolts, ther cheap, and drop shocks,

OR, what I would do next time I did a static drop, parrallel 4 link with adjustable coilovers, same as up front. and a panhard bar, watts link would be overkill, as it would be a stiff suspension anyways, also I would buy the rear sway bar kit, cant remember who makes it but, thats the way I'd go if I ever went without air again.

If I wanted race car handling,.......... There are other ways to go for that purpose, IRS with disc brakes etc.

Toyota spindles up front help drop too. plus there are more wheels to choose from with a 5-lug pattern.
Toyota rear end, (shorter axle) again with matching 5-lug,