just reindexed my bars now have question

ok so just re indexed my t-bars to get ride height i want .. took out the bump stops (still have to cut off the mount) but now it feels very very very bouncy .. to me it just feels too bouncy ... feels like an 80s Buick with blown out suspensions lol is it just that i am bottoming out on the bump stop mounts or is it when you get to this stance that the t-bars are so "loose" that they are just not stiff enough to keep it from bouncing .. the rear is just on 3" blocks still and wanting to mono leaf to get to the stance i want but if its normal to be this bouncy might bring height back up .. any suggestions?

Is it a 'firm' bouncy or a 'soft and floaty' kind of bouncy? If it's a firm bouncy, then that would be fairly normal after reindexing/lowering. if it's soft and floaty, then you may need to tighten the torsion bars, which will raise the ride height a little. If it raises the ride height too much, then re-index one more spline and possibly tighten the torsion bars again. The re-indexing will generally drop the ride height but keep roughly the same tension on the torsion bars, so keeping the tension (twist) on the torsion bars will keep the springiness about the same.

Feels kinda firm ... The handling is much better ... I did 5 splines and the bolt is ran almost all the way up ... Should I go 4 splines and loosen the t-bars ... Would that help? Also running stock replacement shocks could that be part of the problem?

Keep in mind, it is the shock absorber that keeps a spring from acting "springy". Sounds to me like your shocks should be replaced with some heavy duty, short
stroke shocks.

Yeah, I would say your shocks are bottomed out and need replaced. Get lowered shocks, which are shorter...or go to the parts house and ask for the shortest shock that has a post on top and eye on the bottom. I had some shorty Monoroes that were meant for a 76 Datsun car. (rear). They were really short and rode great, also cheaper than lowered shocks. You definetly need to cut the mount off as this will severerly limit your travel and lead to the stiffness you mention. Be aware, adusting your torsion bars only changes the angle of operation NOT THE SPRING RATE. Your spring rate does not change, so with a lowered ride height the only things that will affect ride are the amount of travel you have and the type/ length of shock.

and thats what i thought aswell that reindexing was only for keeping the bolt from hanging too low but the lower you go the softer the spring rate ... think i might raise it back up till i can get a few other parts like lower shocks ? have heard of the izuzu pup 4x4 shocks doin well ... and a set of 4x4 t-bars or start working on my coilovers set up in the front

would a miata shock work? or would that be to short ? if so that would be great think i have an old set laying around .. might even thing about those for the front coilovers

"...but the lower you go the lower the spring rate."
No, you can not change the spring rate of a torsion bar. You don't need 4x4 t bars, it will be even harder for the shocks to control the bouncing of those thicker bars.
Miata shocks are for 2200 lb. little cars. Not what you want.
Here is a link to Monroe shock specs. Their site is very useful, seems they realize car guys need different suspension parts for modded rides!

so just loosening the torsion bars in the front isnt enough to just drop it? i also picked up 3" lowering leafs for the rear havnt put them in yet. Not too concerned about doing it 'properly'(expensively). Cranking the torsion bars will seriously mess with the camber wont it.

The torsion bars are adjustable at the rear mounts so that the truck can be set level, side to side, at the factory or service shop. You can adjust the rear torsion bar mounts so that the truck will lower. When you do this, the adjusting bolts are loosened, or unscrewed downward. So if you use that adjustment to lower your truck, the adjustment bolt will be unscrewed so far that it will be closer to the ground than your frame rail. If not, it will be close. So instead of laying frame you'll be scraping your adjustment bolts. That will be an absolute PAIN IN THE ASS if you ever need to remove or adjust them again.
So, the alternative is to remove the torsion bars from the front mounting point and reinstall them a few grooves (or teeth) off, resulting in a drop, like mylilpwny did. There is a good tech thread on how to do this...
Your camber will be totally out of spec if you lower your truck without replacing suspension parts like arms or spindles, or fabricating some new attachment points for the stock control arms.

And...just my opinion...a "proper" drop is any drop you want. You have to be the judge of whether or not your drop is safe (for you, other drivers and the roads we all pay for ),is comfortable (can't get more subjective than that!) or looks good!