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Mazda Lowering Static \  Finally lowering my 91 b26i

Finally lowering my 91 b26i

Mazda Lowering Static Mazda Suspension Mazda Tech
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replies 14
following 3
 
98hombre   +1y
I'm going to be lowering the mazda as stock height and wheel gap bugs me So i have a few questions I'm hoping to get answered as your input is threw experience

1) Shocks.... What brand did you like for ride quality? mine are weak so the body rolls some and i like a "sporty" feeling but not back breaking. And there isuzu pup shocks front and back ones I have no idea lol

2) Lowering the front can be done many ways.... I would like to level the truck and get the wheel gap gone. so 3-4" drop should do so on stock 14's and the tires i have. Is reindexing the best way to do so ride wise and safety wise? Or should i go a different path?

3) Lowering the rear I got a 3" block set for free but need the U bolts. Any quick info on them? And at what drop do you have to notch at? I may just go to a 4" to help level the truck out.

Thanks for the help and here's a pic of the truck with the topper now off

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Found some actuall rust on the truck now!!! 3 small spots from the topper Still pretty clean for a 91 with 70k miles and in WI lol
91extcab   +1y
4 in the back on a stock frame is gonna be close to hitting frame on good bumps or at higher speeds. Re index the torsions up front, 2 splines should do then tighten the adjuster bolt back up so the ends dont hang below the frame. Cut the bump stops out up front and run early 90s 4wd isuzu shocks up front. Stock shocks in the back will be fine since the distance between mounts doesn't change when you install blocks in the rear. I have load carrying shocks on the back of mine, and that added a good amount of stiffness to the rear along with carry capacity. They really got rid off rear end body roll, but are about $75 for the pair and are sold as a pair. Its cheaper than buying 2 of the high end shocks individually...

On a side note, I did have to install the load carrying shocks upside down as the upper section came in contact with the frame and the shocks wouldn't mount correctly unless upside down...
98hombre   +1y
Ok, thanks for the insight. I thought i was in the ball park with my ideas but figured I'd get some advice just in case as i'm an s10 wiz I did some measuring and ya 4" blocks would leave me about a 1" between the frame and I don't feel like notching my daily as i have a bodydropped truck to finish yet lol.

I guess it all boils down to is when shocks get in now. I'll update with pics of course
1hotdawg   +1y
4" blocks may put you on the frame...I know I can't run them. My 3" are less than an inch from the frame when I air out my shocks. My air shocks keep me from banging the rear end all the time.
98hombre   +1y
Got some of the go low goodies today! new shocks for the front and rear and waiting on the new 3" block kit. Should have it lowered this weekend as today I fixed the gas gauge and did some work on the LSx build
98hombre   +1y
Well today i finally put in the block kit and re indexed the t/bars and threw on new shocks all around Its about a 4" drop up front and 3" blocks in the rear. I'm going to raise the front between 1/2" to an 1" before i get it aligned and switch to 4" blocks to level it out a bit if i have the frame clarence (didn't check got lazy). Over all was easy as everything was "almost" rust free and I have about 1/2 between the tire and fender at full turn currently


Pics time

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I think it looks a LOT better with out the topper, Just needs some tint now, bed liner so i can use it and not scratch it, and CD player and replace the blown speaker lol
1hotdawg   +1y
Looks great likeit is bro.
98hombre   +1y
I like it too, but I dk if i can corner with it safely so i cranked the T bars a bit to get it just above the tires lol. and its nice having working shocks again! haha

OH and my mud flaps are about 1/2 off the ground.... Debating if i should just trim them or ditch them....
1hotdawg   +1y
Let'm drag when they need to, they'll trim themselves
98hombre   +1y

I like the way you think! haha


And quick question, the truck sits about 1/2 lower on the passenger side still and the drivers side is not maxed, but if i max the p/s its still low Should i try taking it back one tooth so its not fully preloaded from the cranked t/bar?

Because I like the height the drivers side is at! I can corner and have some weight with out worrying about it! but if i put a passenger in the truck its tucking the tire again and yeah..... I know the truck was re leveled about 5yrs back at a shop so the t/bars were not set the same before i lowered it.